Help Needed With My PT Sport 40

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BullDogRacing

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2007
Messages
297
Gaday Guy's

I'm in need of some advice about the setup of my PT sport 40 by the guy who are running

these make of boats.

I ran mine for the first time today since it was imported off one of you fellow country man.

after some small change's - turn fin, motor mount , radio box setup,rudder she was ready for it first run today.

The boat is now powered by a Mac running twin 8 ounce tanks one in each side of the sponson. Ive seen in past post's that some bloke's have had problem's with the fuel delivery with this setup but it works fine in my boat .

But the problem in having with this deal is that ive set up all the angles and dangles as I have with most of my hydros in the past but this one is real flighty.

She run's around fine at 1/2 throttle now even a 1/2 throttle is a competitive speed but once I open her up it just blows over in dead calm weather and flat water.

now ive taken some picks of setup's angle's the strut's at about 2-3 degrease .

The CG is at 37mm from behind the ride pad and is what I would think is ok.

the angle of attack of the sponsons also look's about right as you can see in the picks . I used a cut down 457 today also what prop's are you guy's swinging???.

Any input from you guy's who are running PTsport 40's would be great before I go adding lead or changing things .THANKS Brad Thorne

AMPBA 91 :D

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Gaday Guy'sI'm in need of some advice about the setup of my PT sport 40 by the guy who are running

these make of boats.

I ran mine for the first time today since it was imported off one of you fellow country man.

after some small change's - turn fin, motor mount , radio box setup,rudder she was ready for it first run today.

The boat is now powered by a Mac running twin 8 ounce tanks one in each side of the sponson. Ive seen in past post's that some bloke's have had problem's with the fuel delivery with this setup but it works fine in my boat .

But the problem in having with this deal is that ive set up all the angles and dangles as I have with most of my hydros in the past but this one is real flighty.

She run's around fine at 1/2 throttle now even a 1/2 throttle is a competitive speed but once I open her up it just blows over in dead calm weather and flat water.

now ive taken some picks of setup's angle's the strut's at about 2-3 degrease .

The CG is at 37mm from behind the ride pad and is what I would think is ok.

the angle of attack of the sponsons also look's about right as you can see in the picks . I used a cut down 457 today also what prop's are you guy's swinging???.

Any input from you guy's who are running PTsport 40's would be great before I go adding lead or changing things .THANKS Brad Thorne

AMPBA 91 :D

Picture003-1.jpg


Picture002.jpg


Picture001.jpg

1455 piched up a little for the prop or a 2014 by E. LaFlure. Set the boat up exactly the way the directions say. I have added some canard wings on the front of mine and that holds it down good
 
The stock PT boat had a HUGE amount of bottom angle! You need to do the mod to the tunnel by adding foam or some filler to lessen the angle. Here is a link to what I'm talking about.
https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=832

I have a buddy that has modded these using foam in the air trap areas and covered with thin ply. It works!
Instead of going through the whole mod process I added a couple strips of windshield wiper blades about two inches back from the start of the tunnel. Since I've added the strips I've only blown my PT Sport 40 over twice, once in a 20 MPH headwind with 6" rollers, and the other time I hit a retrive boat wake about a foot high. The second blowover was being clocked with a radar gun at 58 MPH.
 
The stock PT boat had a HUGE amount of bottom angle! You need to do the mod to the tunnel by adding foam or some filler to lessen the angle. Here is a link to what I'm talking about.
<a href="https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=832" target="_blank">https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=832</a>

I have a buddy that has modded these using foam in the air trap areas and covered with thin ply. It works!
Instead of going through the whole mod process I added a couple strips of windshield wiper blades about two inches back from the start of the tunnel. Since I've added the strips I've only blown my PT Sport 40 over twice, once in a 20 MPH headwind with 6" rollers, and the other time I hit a retrive boat wake about a foot high. The second blowover was being clocked with a radar gun at 58 MPH.
Wiper blades eh! hmm wonder where you got that idea. If you dont have any weight in the left sponson it needs 3-4 oz. If the wipers dont work start droping the strut very small amounts at a time. This setup will pull a full size x450 and get you near 60mph
 
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The stock PT boat had a HUGE amount of bottom angle! You need to do the mod to the tunnel by adding foam or some filler to lessen the angle. Here is a link to what I'm talking about.
<a href="https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=832" target="_blank">https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=832</a>

I have a buddy that has modded these using foam in the air trap areas and covered with thin ply. It works!
Instead of going through the whole mod process I added a couple strips of windshield wiper blades about two inches back from the start of the tunnel. Since I've added the strips I've only blown my PT Sport 40 over twice, once in a 20 MPH headwind with 6" rollers, and the other time I hit a retrive boat wake about a foot high. The second blowover was being clocked with a radar gun at 58 MPH.
Do you have some pics of that set up, I have PT40 that is in the rebuild process, need to get it running soon.

Thanks, Ed
 
Gaday ALL

Ray PM sent Mate !!!.

Thanks guys for the help ill be back in the water in two week's so ill see how the 1455 and the wiper blade's go before i go and mod the tub as i wouldnt like to reck the work of art paint job that one of you guy's over there did on her ?????/. :D

THANKS Brad
 
What setup does this boat have? front radio or rear? Do you have the front canards installed?

I see you have the strut mounted so the prop will be under the boat. AMPBA rule? You will be limited on prop size, the 1455 may not clear the hull.

I have been running the octura x646/3 with the Mac45.

The strut depth should be about 7/8" bottom of boat to centerline of shaft with about 1/8th difference at the front of the strut.

Your balance point is about right. Adjust the strut and the angle, add some weight to the front left.

The mod for the tunnels works real well. The new 08 boats with the new bottom have the strut set shallower and almost flat on the table.

The wiper blade thing does about the same thing but your boat will need some more angle in the strut adjustment.

Check your turn fin alignment, it cannot be tweaked out at the rear of the fin at all, straight or tweaked in is best. The fin can cause the right sponson to suck down and the left to lift and blow off with even the smallest amout of left steering if the turn fin is not correct.

Ray sent the sheet showing that alignment.

Here is the setup info on trimming that comes with the boat.

10. TRIMMING THE BOAT

The hull should balance about 18-19 inches from the transom without fuel. The 7/8” inch strut depth is a good starting point. If the boat rides too light on the water, adjust the strut

deeper. If the front sponson are running too hard on the water adjust the strut higher until the boat rides flat on the water but will not blow off. Small adjustments to the strut angle can be made also. The strut can be set up flat on the table and at a depth of about 1 1/8” deep from the hull bottom to the table. Weight can be added to the nose or sponson tips to fine trim the hulls balance point if needed. Insert lead strips in the end of the pipe insulation, tyrap the flotation tube end to hold the weights at the tip of the front sponsons. More weight in the left sponson tip helps trim the boat balance point, add 2-4 oz. Once the boat is set up correctly no changes should be necessary for smooth or rough water other than adding weight to the nose. On a calm day the boat may spray water from the forward steps of the front sponson, raise the strut to lighten the boats ride, but be careful not to make it too loose when racing on rougher water. In rough water the boat may look like it is too loose on the water, do not change the trim unless the boat tends to blow off.
 
What setup does this boat have? front radio or rear? Do you have the front canards installed?
I see you have the strut mounted so the prop will be under the boat. AMPBA rule? You will be limited on prop size, the 1455 may not clear the hull.

I have been running the octura x646/3 with the Mac45.

The strut depth should be about 7/8" bottom of boat to centerline of shaft with about 1/8th difference at the front of the strut.

Your balance point is about right. Adjust the strut and the angle, add some weight to the front left.

The mod for the tunnels works real well. The new 08 boats with the new bottom have the strut set shallower and almost flat on the table.

The wiper blade thing does about the same thing but your boat will need some more angle in the strut adjustment.

Check your turn fin alignment, it cannot be tweaked out at the rear of the fin at all, straight or tweaked in is best. The fin can cause the right sponson to suck down and the left to lift and blow off with even the smallest amout of left steering if the turn fin is not correct.

Ray sent the sheet showing that alignment.

Here is the setup info on trimming that comes with the boat.

10. TRIMMING THE BOAT

The hull should balance about 18-19 inches from the transom without fuel. The 7/8” inch strut depth is a good starting point. If the boat rides too light on the water, adjust the strut

deeper. If the front sponson are running too hard on the water adjust the strut higher until the boat rides flat on the water but will not blow off. Small adjustments to the strut angle can be made also. The strut can be set up flat on the table and at a depth of about 1 1/8” deep from the hull bottom to the table. Weight can be added to the nose or sponson tips to fine trim the hulls balance point if needed. Insert lead strips in the end of the pipe insulation, tyrap the flotation tube end to hold the weights at the tip of the front sponsons. More weight in the left sponson tip helps trim the boat balance point, add 2-4 oz. Once the boat is set up correctly no changes should be necessary for smooth or rough water other than adding weight to the nose. On a calm day the boat may spray water from the forward steps of the front sponson, raise the strut to lighten the boats ride, but be careful not to make it too loose when racing on rougher water. In rough water the boat may look like it is too loose on the water, do not change the trim unless the boat tends to blow off.
GADAY ALL

HI PHIL

Just received you email and seen your post .

Mate with the setup she has a front mounted radio box the fuel system being twin 8 once tanks 1 in each sponson just beside the motor .

as for the strut the photo isn't the best but no the prop is out from under the transom the drive dog keys just protrude if you were to run a strait edge down it .

With the turn fin once you mentioned the toe out or in I thought arrrr!!!! that's it we have the problem but it yes it was out by about 2mm ive since bent it right if not in by 2 mm ive added more pick's so you can see .

THANK'S Brad :)

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