Help from Bud experts

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
OK, I figured out the picture thing...

Thanks for the info Mike. As long as it is the T-3, I'm happy. It will go well with the T-2 that I am building.

Did Fritz use carbon fiber?

I was told a company named Falk Marine made it. Supposedly Bernie Little drove it around in San Diego and was featured in an ESPN segment on hydros.

I couldn't prove that, but the trailor that came with it does have his signature on it.
 
He used carbon fiber in certain portions of the boat to reinforce. Most of the boat was epoxy glass. I'm not familiar with Falk. When I looked at teh sponsons and the rear tiplets it reminded me of Bill Fritz's work but the cowl and canopy seem to be slightly different. I hope this runs as well as it looks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
How can you tell the difference, Mike? According to the hull roster, the only real difference is that the T3 picklefork depth is 12" deeper than on T2. Are you going from the driver's name color, since I have heard rumors that the two boats had the name in different colors.
 
Hi Doug,

If thats a Falk it is the same as mine which I have ran for the last 10 years. I have 2 of these boats, one powered with a Mac 67 and one that has been repowered with an electric motor and a video can be seen here of the electric Bud. http://www.lousfastrc.com/video.htm

It is the 60mph Bud T2 not the 80mph one which is the T4 B)

Mike, DVD's arrived and they are great....Thanks for the great service.

Merv
 
The nose and the area behind the turbine tube are the easiest ways to tell. The nose is different between the two and the T2 had a metal pan behind the turbine tube. The way I could tell it wasn't a Fritz was the cockpit shape and length of the nose and the rear area of the cowl and turbine tube fairing. This one looks like the cowl and fairing are molded one peice and the Fritz is two pieces. The sponson canoes look very much like the the Fritz hull but his sponson canoes have been splashed a number of times and there are different variations on them. I have a two-wing that are identical to his except for the ride pads.
 
Sorry guys but there is disagreement about which boat this is. As it sits it is the T-2. The T-2 has a pointier nose than the T-3. Also the depth of the canard is less than on the T-3. If you look at the back of the boat, it does have the metal under the turbine tube area and the non-existant turbine tube.

All of these traits point to the T-2. However, the problem comes from the fact that the T-2 only ran once in the red paint job. That was at the San Diego race. The boat was still painted gold when it ran in Seattle.

In San Diego it only ran with the salt water scoop on it, so you either need to add that or redo the canard and turbine tube area.

Bill Fritz hulls come with the T-2 canard, so unless you modify it, that is what you get. I know, I have three of them. I think you are rigth though about it not being a Fritz hull, based upon the contour of the nose.

Of course all that is based upon your local inspector being a hard ass. I can't really think of anyone who would 1. Know the differences and 2. Would care.

So you are probably OK saying it is the T-3

1994 Bud T3

Note the visible turbine tube and the deeper canard and shorter nose

1994 Bud T-2

Salt Water Scoop, pointier nose, no visible turbine tube from this angle, metal under turbine tube area

BTW the paint difference in Chip's name was with the Gold Paint job not the red one. His name was blue on the T-2 and red on the T-3.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wasn't really sure about that rear deck. Can't really tell if it's metal or whether the turbine tube and rear deck were not on the boat when the shot was taken. But without the salt water scoop it kinda has to run as the T3.
 
The back of the deck is metal.

That was a great shot of the T-3...

I do have a salt water scoop. I can modify it and plug it into the front end.\Or, I have a flat plate that I could paint red and put in the back, add an exhaust pipe, and call it the T-3.

Do you think I should block the air flow on the salt water scoop, or leave it wide open? :blink:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The back of the deck is metal.

That was a great shot of the T-3...

I do have a salt water scoop. I can modify it and plug it into the front end.\Or, I have a flat plate that I could paint red and put in the back, add an exhaust pipe, and call it the T-3.

Do you think I should block the air flow on the salt water scoop, or leave it wide open? :blink:

Cut a piece of dense styrofoam to fir the inside of the scoop and the extension.lue it into the extension and then use it to "plug" the extension into the scoop. Hollow out the senter so you still have airflow through it.

Makes an easy way to connect it, plus it has flotation if it ever gets knocked off.

Harry
 
The back of the deck is metal.

That was a great shot of the T-3...

I do have a salt water scoop. I can modify it and plug it into the front end.\Or, I have a flat plate that I could paint red and put in the back, add an exhaust pipe, and call it the T-3.

Do you think I should block the air flow on the salt water scoop, or leave it wide open? :blink:

Cut a piece of dense styrofoam to fir the inside of the scoop and the extension.lue it into the extension and then use it to "plug" the extension into the scoop. Hollow out the senter so you still have airflow through it.

Makes an easy way to connect it, plus it has flotation if it ever gets knocked off.

Harry
Thanks for the tips. I appreciate it.
 
Hey Harry,

Maybe you know the answer to this question. I have a number of shots of the what looks like the T3 that has the "Bernie Little" on the sponsons in white right under the Budweiser. Yet in all my race footage from 1994 I have never seen that. Was that just a pub photo?
 
Back
Top