Getting back into boats, going electric... ALOT of questions.

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Tony Marquart

Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
24
I ran and designed nitro hydros for long time. Gave it up some years ago. I want to get back into boats but not as deeply as before. I'm going electric. Going to build a sport style hydro about 33 in..
I know that asking opinions on products gets mixed answers,.. but if I can get some general feedback on this set up and components,. I would appreciate it.

Delta force vortex 34 hull
leopard 4082 1800kv
Seaking 180 esc
speed master running hardware
2 3s batteries 5000mA 50-70C - 2 batteries in series

What class would this run in? I can do a good hull setup. Would this be a competitive combination? I was reading about kv,. I think it's a thing where lower KV motor u would use a larger prop, high KV = hi rpm and lower torque = smaller prop. Is this true? 1800 is about middle of the road,.. good selection?
Would this setup be considered high power for this hull? I like a slightly over powered setup,.


Also how do I run a BEC with the Lipo batteries?

thanks
 
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What you have would be better suited as a "P" class or 4S. Also a better chance that P might be run as there are less boaters and clubs running 6S or Q classes. In Q your allowed up to 40 inch hulls. P seems to be more popular. Also 1800kv is a bit high for Q and 2 3S 5000's in series is still only 5000ma. In my Q-mono I run a 40X92 1350kv motor and use 2 4400ma 6S in parallel for 8800ma. Depending on prop I need the 8800 a to come in with cells above 3.75v. 2 3300's (6600ma) and I can't prop up as much for 6 laps.
As a "P" on 4S your 1800 will allow a larger prop selection for the class. I would buy a pair of 3600-5000ma 4S cells and run them in parallel. Your ESC should be enough for a 4082 motor. On d 6S the 1800 would be a rocket but not a good Q boat to finish heats.
Mic
 
What you have would be better suited as a "P" class or 4S. Also a better chance that P might be run as there are less boaters and clubs running 6S or Q classes. In Q your allowed up to 40 inch hulls. P seems to be more popular. Also 1800kv is a bit high for Q and 2 3S 5000's in series is still only 5000ma. In my Q-mono I run a 40X92 1350kv motor and use 2 4400ma 6S in parallel for 8800ma. Depending on prop I need the 8800 a to come in with cells above 3.75v. 2 3300's (6600ma) and I can't prop up as much for 6 laps.
As a "P" on 4S your 1800 will allow a larger prop selection for the class. I would buy a pair of 3600-5000ma 4S cells and run them in parallel. Your ESC should be enough for a 4082 motor. On d 6S the 1800 would be a rocket but not a good Q boat to finish heats.
Mic

Thanks,
I have not purchased any of this yet. I'm working on a package right now. So P class is more common? The motor speed control is a combo package from OSE,. already soldered up,.. so the selection is a bit limited.
So you feel this combination, on hi ma battery set up is a competitive combination?
 
Check with the guys in your area as to what classes are offered. Where are you? As a "P' you should be competitive and in my experience with P motors in that watt range 6000ma or less would be too little. Xtra battery weight and coming in with more voltage left is a plus.
Mic
 
Thanks guys. I'm not going to go for Q hydro. Just P,. a bit smaller. sounds like the consensus is to run 2 4s batteries in "parallel"? I'm not an electronics guy for sure. Maybe a bit more weight there but helps keep the hull on the water at these speeds right?
I'm assuming that all the same hull set up principals apply to FE right? anything else I should be looking for? Should I be looking at the same props as .21 nitro boat? 38-42mm - 1.4-1.6 pitch?

How long does it take to charge a set of batteries? how many sets should I plant to take to the lake for testing?
 
How long does it take to charge lipos is kind of a subjective question. I know there is a very good formula to compute that, not sure exactly what it is. As far as how many sets to take to the pond, I'd plan on at least three, with chargers for at least two.
Those that run 1/10th scale electric scale hydros routinely take one set per heat with a charger per set. That gives them run time to test a couple of times and run the first two heats while the batteries used to test are recharging. Have you already purchased your chargers as what to get in that regard might also be a good question to be asking
 
boy this is a pricey start up,.. but not buying fuel, plugs, ignitors, starters, starter batteries,. etc,.. still sounds good..
 
If you are just playing around and testing.. you will want to invest in a few sets.. you will get some killer 3 or 4 minuet runs and then.... you will not be able to just.. fill it up and go.. However.. I use a parallel board for my Helis and that makes short work of charging.. (I dont run Electric boats).. BUT.. charging is not all that different.

So you know.. there are a few simple rules that are best to follow.. charge the pack as close to the use time as possible. Avoid charging the week, few days or night before.. Place in storage voltage as soon as you can and or as close to the end of the run as you can.

None of this matters if battery cost is not a concern,, but if it is.. its worth doing.

Grim
 
I'm looking for a well loved electric starter boat for my brother. He needs to get out and chase a boat around the local pond for exercise. Pond in NJ electric only. We used to go watch the hobbyists with our Dad. Any suggestions are welcome. I need something that provides immediate gratification, not a builder, yet. Thanks for suggestions
 
I would suggest you get something that self rights! I have lots of boats of all kinds and I enjoy playing around with my ProBoat Recoil 26.
 
The Proboat UL-19 is a competitive design out of the box. It runs very well in our P limited sport hydro class. Their Sonic Wake mono is another suggestion. The P limited classes are as low cost as you get in quality, not toy electric boats.

Lohring Miller
 
Thanks but I gave him top of line rc plane years ago as I'm a pilot...good think I also purchased an additional foam starter as he "crashed and burned that" . I'm looking for an old estate, electric chugger...for openers.
 
I've flown a lot of planes in the era before ARF "kits". Building skills were a must. Boats are a lot more forgiving. The small boats I mentioned will probably survive collisions with a dirt bank with minimal or no damage. I've seen kids with video game experience race against experienced racers and do well with little practice. I always recommend that new boaters visit a local club event. Members often have used equipment for sale that would be a good starter package at a reasonable price. Your son may get excited about racing from watching. Our club always welcomes spectators. I may be able to recommend a club in your area.

Lohring Miller
 
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