FLUSHING THE MOTOR

[roochaser]

Hi there every body ,is it a good idea to flush the motor with methenol and oil with no nitro after a day on the lake ,also should i oil the motor by spraying inox down the spark plug and down the carbi after i flush the motor ,am i on the right track here by doing this.Havent used the boat for a couple of weeks so i checked the plug and it looked as though it was bit rusty, starting to woorry bout the bearings and and other inturnel bits and peaces, any tips on this subject would be a big help CHEERS DAVID

 

[jydracing]

the way that i do it is while spinning the engine over i spray triflow through it than automatic transmission flud. i never had any problems rust or bearings hope this helps jimmy

 

[Don Ferrette]

This subject keeps re-surfacing. Flush the motor out INCLUDING the water jacket with WD40 then your favorite blend of after run oil thru the motor. My after run mix of choice is a 50/50 mix of Marvel AIR tool oil & 90 weight grear oil. Been doin' it this way for years with great results.

 

[Ken Hildreth]

The water head Flush don is talking about is very Key. You will never know you have a problem there until one day when you try to take the motor apart. Then when nothing comes loose because it is corroded tight. You will have a problem and may need a new Jug or Case, depending on what motor you have. It is always a great Idea to flush your motors. My Method is almost exactly like Dons, And I have been doing this for years also with great results. Ken

 

[snowdog-2112]

And for those of us on a budget or not able to get those hi-tech liquids, use WD-40 for the flush while spinning the engine and then follow that up with Automatic transmission fluid. WD-40 in the water jacket is good enough...no need for the tranny fluid in there! B)

 

[Ron Jefferson]

Maybe a bit overkill but here's how I do mine...

-first I spin the motor over using a mixture or air tool oil, trans fluid, stp oil treatment and wd40.

-second I remove the engine from the boat and take the cooling button off. This is good as it allows you to take a look at what's going on inside the motor. I inspect the head button, piston top and take a peek through the exhaust port. After inspection I spray the entire motor down with WD 40 including the inside of the cooling jacket, head bolts, case and head button.

-third I fill the entire crankcase with a mixture much like the above without the WD 40 and let it sit while I clean the boat up. When I get back to the motor I simply rock the crank back and forth with the mixture inside for a few minutes then let it dump out the carb and exhaust port.

-last I wrap the motor in shop towels for the next time out.

This has worked really well for me. My motors last a long time and stay looking like new for all the time I own them. 2 years is about the max of any boat or engine I own. You may have noticed I'm usually the last to leave the pond after any outing, mostly because of my engine/boat maintenance program. Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you. Is what I say.

Ron

 

[anthony_marquart]

I've had my dissapointments opening up an engine and finding rust and junk when I thought I was taking care of it.

I'm my humble opinion, the most important thing is getting ALL the moisture OUT of the engine. Since Methanol attracts moisture you must also get all the methanol out of the engine as well. Once this is done your choices on lubricant are endless. I think that if you keep the water out any of the oil methods liosted will work great.

 

[bzubee]

I would avoid using alcohol due to the flamability. I have seen a gas boater do this and he caught his boat on fire luckily some one grabed it and toss it into the lake.

 

[boaterbill]

This subject keeps re-surfacing. Flush the motor out INCLUDING the water jacket with WD40 then your favorite blend of after run oil thru the motor. My after run mix of choice is a 50/50 mix of Marvel AIR tool oil & 90 weight grear oil. Been doin' it this way for years with great results. 

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Good point about the water jacket. I also use Marvel pneumatic oil, 50/50 with reg pneumatic oil. For winter storage I add a little Prolong with the mix. Been working geat for past ten years. I use brake cleaner for flushing motors out, carb cleaner leaves a residue, B C does not,

Bill

 

[Grimracer]

Here is mine.

Motor comes out of the boat. (OB engines the power head comes off)

WD-40 through the water jacket (once the motor is broke in I never remove the head bolts until the motor needs service, this is a performance issue)

Air Tool oil in the motor and allot of it.

Work the air tool oil through the motor turning by hand.

Drain out the excess

Reinstall motor

Done

No rong way.. However i would stay away from Marvell Mistery Oil.. there is some bad stuff in there..if it smells like wintergreen..stay away from it..

Grim

 

[shoboat]

Boaters,

I blow out my motors first with WD-40 then I blow them out with RISOLONE.

I also do the water jacket with WD-40. Once this has been done I blow it all

out again and just put more Risolone in the motor. I then place the motor in

a sealed baggie, and let it rest until I am ready to wake it up again. :lol: :lol:

Have Fun Fellas,

Don't Leave Home Without Your Risolone!

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

 

[Preston_Hall]

Get rid of water first - WD40.

Then coat inside of engine with whatever lube you want. I once used Marvel thinned with mineral spirits. But I now flush with WD40 and that's it. Never a problem.

Kind of wondered why nobody ever stored their engines totally submersed in oil. No air or water to worry about.

 

[Joe_Knesek]

Kind of wondered why nobody ever stored their engines totally submersed in oil. No air or water to worry about.

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I did this years ago and the O rings grew over the winter to the point they needed to be replaced.

 

[Preston_Hall]

Kind of wondered why nobody ever stored their engines totally submersed in oil. No air or water to worry about.

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I did this years ago and the O rings grew over the winter to the point they needed to be replaced.

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Had to have been the wrong oil or every engine on earth would need to be rebuilt year to year.

 

[jydracing]

hi all i store my engines in atf works great. jimmy

 

[tracerbob]

I spin the motor over while spraying wd-40 down the carb (out of the boat of course). I hold a rag over the plug hole while spinning n spraying and I smell the rag periodically and stop when I can't smell any more fuel. I spray the water jacket out with wd-40. Then I load it all up with ATF.

Here's where I do something different. When I get home, I pull the water jacket and head button off, then the back plate off and set the motor in a tray to allow the excess oil to drain. I wipe down all the fasteners with oil. My idea is to let the engine "air out" and I can look for problems. I put it all back together in a couple of days with fresh lube.

 

[Watercadet]

Kind of wondered why nobody ever stored their engines totally submersed in oil. No air or water to worry about.

A few boaters here in San Diego (we run in salt) do. They tear down the whole motor and put it all in Tupperware then glug glug in the ATF from the gallon jug.

Adam

 

[gene gager]

use to use marvel but ended up with rusty cranks, switched to atf and no more rust or anything else. make sure to pull fuel line off carb when spinning motor or you will draw alcohol into motor along with atf and alcohol draws moisture.

 

[dave roach]

I use air tool oil and trans fluid mix 50/50 this works great

 

[Pennywizz6]

Alot of companies sell after run oil, very very cheap, worth it by far. I know hobbico makes a little bottle for 3$ just one drop in the carb and one drop in the combustion chamber and ur good to go! Ive never had a nitro engine without it so i dont know if there is a difference in performance, HS guys reccomend it and i dont think you can go wrong.

Phil B)