flex shaft and hydro ????

[tmunn]

I am a newbie and this is my First attempt to switch from a square drive and engine swap..

1)What type of solder do i use to re-solder a new flexi back into the brass ferrul and any tips you guys may have to help me with this process.

2)If my collet that is on the engine is only 1/2-3/4" from the end of the stuffing tube but I can still get the outer tightening nut off will this be o-k.

3)what spacing do i need to leave between the strut and the ferrel or anywhere along the drive line for cable windup

4)The ops that I am installing has some type of exhaust cooler on it with 2 nipples on each side how does this get plumbed using coolant lines.I think I just route the lines so when it comes out the coolant jacket on the engine it passes through the header coolant jacket one way and you hook 2 of the nipples on the same side with a short piece of coolant line and the water comes out the opposite side and out the side of the boat.

Does this sound correct??

Thanks for now guys I will probably have more Q's

Terry

 

[tmunn]

c'mon guys 87 hits and no help.

i have had some help with the soldering part but what about the other questions.

Thanks

Terry

 

[P THOMAS]

I am a newbie and this is my First attempt to switch from a square drive and engine swap..

1)What type of solder do i use to re-solder a new flexi back into the brass ferrul and any tips you guys may have to help me with this process.

YOU ARE SWITCHING FROM A SQUARE DRIVE TO A REGULAR COLLET FLEX SHAFT? USUALLY THE FLEX SHAFT HAS THE STEEL PROP SHAFT ALREADY ON THE CABLE SO NO SOLDERING TO A NEW FERRULE WOULD BE NEEDED.

2)If my collet that is on the engine is only 1/2-3/4" from the end of the stuffing tube but I can still get the outer tightening nut off will this be o-k.

THATS OK YOU REALLY ONLY NEED ABOUT 1/4", JUST ENGOUGH CLEARANCE TO GET THE STARTER BELT INSTALLED WITH OUT LOOSING THE MOTOR.

3)what spacing do i need to leave between the strut and the ferrel or anywhere along the drive line for cable windup

USUALLY JUDGE THE GAP BY THE THICKNESS OF THE CABLE YOU USE 3/16 OR 1/4"

4)The ops that I am installing has some type of exhaust cooler on it with 2 nipples on each side how does this get plumbed using coolant lines.I think I just route the lines so when it comes out the coolant jacket on the engine it passes through the header coolant jacket one way and you hook 2 of the nipples on the same side with a short piece of coolant line and the water comes out the opposite side and out the side of the boat.

Does this sound correct??

THATS OK JUST WATCH THAT U AND MAKE SURE IT DOESNT KINK AND RESTRICT THE WATER FLOW.

Thanks for now guys I will probably have more Q's

Terry

WHAT BOAT YOU INSTALLING THIS IN?

 

[tmunn]

Phil Thomas sport 40.

engine is done now the coolant plumbing and making a new flexi.

I need to know how much space between the stru and thrust washer to leave for cable wind up.

thanks

 

[P THOMAS]

Phil Thomas sport 40.

engine is done now the coolant plumbing and making a new flexi.

I need to know how much space between the stru and thrust washer to leave for cable wind up.

thanks

See # 3 above :blink:

 

[Dan Hydro]

Phil Thomas sport 40.

engine is done now the coolant plumbing and making a new flexi.

I need to know how much space between the stru and thrust washer to leave for cable wind up.

thanks

See # 3 above :blink:

Here is the type of cooling system that Terry's talking about for the exhaust cooler. Notice the 4 brass inlet/outlet.

 

[Dasboatman]

Terry,

I think you are confusing some of us with wanting to solder a new Ferrule onto the flex shaft using a compression style engine collet.

The square drive style only uses the brass ferrule soldered to the flex shaft. The ferrule attaches to the stub shaft with two set screws. The stub shaft transits the strut, then a thrust bearing, then drive dog, prop and, finally prop nut. The square drive system thrusts on the rear of the strut through the thrust bearing, thus putting no load on the cable or engine. The squared forward portion of the cable simply floats in the engine's square collet.

Phil 18OCT06 5:24 post gives you the standard flex cable setup using a compression style collet on the engine. This is the setup that reguires spacing between the forward portion of the drive dog and the rear of the strut. In this setup, prop thrust loads the cable, and the engine.

With the OPS 45, you may want to consider replacing the water nipples with nipples that have larger ID holes through the nipples. OPS engines run hot with the small cooling chamber provided. I ran OPS engines in the past and replacing the nipples is one of the first things I do - - You will have to drill and tap the water jacket and the exhaust cooler - - usually for 10-32. I still use the old K&B 45 degree nipples, but I'm sure you can get 90 degree nipples from Speedmaster or other sources. CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[tmunn]

Your not the first guys I have confused

I purchased the boat and it had a square collet on the engine.

The cable runs thru the stuffing box and to the ferrule which is soldered on.

The prop shaft then goes into the opposite end of the Ferrule and is held in place by 2 set screws.

When I look at drive line from the side this is what The flex shaft coming out thru the teflon tube and brass tube.I see ferrule which is holding the prop shaft wby 2 set screws, i see a nylon washer behind thatthen the prop shaft goes into the front of the strut and thru a tiny brass or copper bushing.the shaft comes out the rear of the strut and I see.nylon washer, drive dog, prop, and wheel collor to hold everything on.

I purchased an ops engine that has the standard collet that tightens on the cable.

I thought I could just install the ops engine and use the pinch type collet it came with, remove the square ended cable with the ferrule on the opposite end Then re-solder a new cable the proper length into the ferrule.

Now I would re-use the old ferrule with a new cable that would slide into the collet on the engine.

In essence replacing the square ended cable with a round one, re use the ferrule and all the hardware from the ferrule rearward but make the cable long enough to go well ino the the collet at the engine.

BoB

I will check the size of the coolant nipples and use large I/D coolant lines as well.

It is only about 40 degrees here and the water is cool so I should be o-k until next summer.

but will definately keep an eye on engine temps.

How many turns out would be a good starting point for the HSN.30% nitro

Thanks for any help guys

Terry

 

[tmunn]

I understand how the flex cable with the prop shaft already on the cable would work.It is the same principle as my miss vegas.

I have a flex cable with the prop shaft already welded to it. I was going to cut and solder the ferrule on and re-use all my other hardware from the ferrule back

Here is a couple problems i see if i were to use the flexi with the prop shaft already installed.

The steel part(prop shaft) that runs inside the strut is too short so if i leave enough of the shaft out the rear to get my washer, prop and wheel collor on, aprox. 3/4"-1" of the actual flex shaft would be running inside of the front hole in the strut where normaly the solid prop shaft would run.

1)Would this hurt anything if aprox 1" of the flexi is actually inside the strut ?

also

The strut i have incorporates a small bushing in the front opening of the prop shaft hole.

2) If i do not use a ferrule in front of the strut, what would hold the bushing in place?

I know there are shafts available with longer prop shaft but I am in a pinch and our season is almost over.

and i would like to get a good run out of this boat before freeze up.

I understand how both systems work but am just wondering if I can use some parts of one sytem and some of another if that makes any sense ..

Thanks for you patience and help guys

Terry

 

[Dasboatman]

Terry,

Have you considered putting a square drive collet on the OPS and just replacing the cable with another square drive cable ?? I have run square drives for years, and get all square drive components from Lenny Blake - Rum Racing Products -www.rumracingproducts.com.

Normally the steel stub shaft runs the entire width of the strut. If you attempt to run the flex portion - - "

aprox. 3/4"-1" of the actual flex shaft would be running inside of the front hole in the strut where normaly the solid prop shaft would run." - - I don't believe that will run for long, running in a bearing surface. The stub shafts are normally a case hardened stainless to last a bit longer running in a bearing area.

It sounds to me that you have some - other than stock hardware on the SS45. I have seen on this Forum a SS45 build using readily available Speedmaster hardware. Maybe it's time to simply replace the existing, non standard hardware.

If you decide to go with a compression type engine collet, I would recommend that you replace thestock OPS collet with a Aeromarine compression collet to avoid significant frustration.

Do you have another boater that you can speak with and see what he/she is running??? Show and tell is most valuable. CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[tmunn]

I bought the boat used and it is suppose to be speedmaster hardware on it but i not would know for sure.

There are no other boaters in my area to help or compare my boat to.

I have considered using the square drive on the ops I was actually looking on the aeromarine sit today and could not find anything for the ops threads to a 3/16" square drive.

I really don't see why I could not use my ferrule, solder it to the new flex shaft use my old stub and leave a space in the rear of the strut between the washer and the strut for any cable windup that will occur between the engine and the ferrule.

Why would this nor work until I have a chance to re-hardware this winter.

Where could I get an ops square drive collet.That would most likely be the easiest.

Thanks again.

 

[Dasboatman]

"Where could I get an ops square drive collet.That would most likely be the easiest."

Terry,

You need to pay closer attention. I already told you where to get the collet and the square drive cable for the OPS 45 - -

"get all square drive components from Lenny Blake - Rum Racing Products -www.rumracingproducts.com."

CHEERS !!! Bob