I have installed an older used ops .45 in a hydro and it is flooding badly .
It was suggested that i start with 4 turns out but it is flooding badly .
Is there a LSN for this carb/engine I do not see one.
The barrel will rotate 360 degrees so i was wondering if I might have the spray bar in the wrong position.
Should the hole in the spray bar be facing the engine/ intake drum or the opposite direction.
It will only run if I disconnect the carb otherwise it will fill the engine with fuel
Thanks
Ahhh the OPS 45......
this was my first motor and ran well for years for me.
Heres a list of things I'd recommend for this motor to get it running.
Just to get it running with minimum engine teardown.
1) The stock carb is fine but that wire hey use for the needle valve will eventially break from vibration. I take that out and solder the hole it came out of. Run a 1/16 drill bit through the spray bar after soldering to make sure you didn't plug the whole thing. same thing through the fuel nipple. I run a seperate remote needle. either manual or 3rd channel. The stock spraybar is fine for now. Later on you can slim down then spray bar so it doesn't comsume so much of the carb bore.
After a lot of fiddling I did get the engine running but am way leaner than suggested.We set it as rich as possible on the bench without it loading up and it was running nice and responsive and although unfamiliar with these engine was empressed.
2) Is the fuel level in your tank above the carb inlet. If so it is gravity feeding into the motor and filling it.
The fuel level is above the carb when the tank is full
3) Take a look at the rotor position, roll the crank so the engine is at top dead center (piston is all the way to the top). open the carb and look at the rotor inside. the window should be half open. If its fully closed the crank pin is in the wrong hole of the rotor. This will make the motor very hard to start and spit fuel out the carb. This is assuming you have a disk rotor.
The rotor position is good from what you described.
4) check all of screws to make sure they are tight. On your next teardown blue loctite is a must except for
the head scre.
All screws were checke prior to startup and blue loc tite was used
5) Turn the carb 3 turn out. take the glow plug out open the throttle wide open and turn the engine over with the starter. Put a rag loosely over the glow plug hole to catch the spray. We call this "foggin the engine." Put the plug in and fire it up at about half throttle. It doesn't have a low end needle so it won't idle and you have to rev it up to keep it cleaned out.
it started right up after we found the correct carb setting.
What you are looking for is when you go from 1/3 throttle to wide open is a slight heistation. if hit revs without hesitation, you are too lean. if it kills, you to rich.
When these motors are lean what wil happen is that they will rev up and hit a single high note and won't come off that note untill you bak almost all the way off the throttle. That is way too lean or you have a leak somewhere.
This one had various sound pitches through the various throttle positions..
if I got this used motor is this is what I would do with it if I was going to leave it stock.
1) take it completely apart
2) inspect the rod for spun bushings, oval holes, bends, etc (replace if necessary)
3) inspect the bearings, the bearing housing on these motors tends to wear out and and allow the bearing to spin. THe motor will still run this way but it is best to get a new one. red loctite around the bearing works as a crutch. but not forever. (replace if necessary) Look for pits or discoloration of the bearing balls or loose retainers. If in doubt, change them.
4) Take a look at how the rotor seals to the backplate. I lap the rotor to the backplate then set the clearance with .001 under one side of the rotor. This give a big improvement in torque.
5) check the head clearnace and set to .008-.012"
6) check the piston pin to make sure it is shiny. If it is not I run some grey scotchbrite over it. Same with the crankpin when it goes into the rod and bearings. The black or copper stuff on the crank or piston pin is metal that has transferred from the rod to the steel. You want to polish this off back to the base metal.
after all of this I'd adjust the timings.
Good pipe for that engine is the OPS 67 nitro pipe set to 10 1/2" from plug to weld. I haven't tried it with other pipes but I'm currently running the CMDI 45 parabolic at close to 9" in a rigger. I wouldn't try running that short with that engine because it might not like the RPM and fly apart. Newer motor are designed for the higher RPM range.
