Engine help with PIP .45 inboard.

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tmunn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2006
Messages
1,560
I am looking for some setup hael and technical help with the precision in perfection pip that i bought.

There is a wedge shaped peice of aluminum thet fits into the metal cylinder behind the carb what dies it do and is it supposed to move in and out inside this metal barrel or be permanantly fastened in one position.

I will try and add a picture but have had trouble in the past.

I bought the engine and am having setup issues.
 
I think what you are describing is what holds the carb in place. There should be a hole in the wedge. In the front plate of the motor there is a place to put the carb. In that should have a place for the wedge peice. It will have a place for a bolt to go through and pull the wedge shape up against the barrel of the carb to keep it in postion.

Mike

PS Here is a LINK to a shot of a Picco 67. The motor on the right has the carb setup you are describing.
 
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Mike these carbs are held with 2 bolts.

behind the carb there is a steel tubular thing that rotates in a casing .This casing or housing then bolts to the crankcase while lining up the slot in the rotating barrel thing with the pin on the crank.

Then the carb mounts to the front of this casing..

well the metal barrel thing that rotates by the crank pin on the end of the crank has an aluminum piece in it that look like a ramp/wedge and my guess would be it deflects fuel into the hole in the housing and into the crankcase.

This liitle wedge afffair is not fastened to the steel barrel and I am wondering if it should be and if so what woud I use to fasten it there.

I cannot post the pics so is If I e-mailed them to you would hou have a look or post them for me.

Thanks

Terry
 
Mike these carbs are held with 2 bolts.

behind the carb there is a steel tubular thing that rotates in a casing .This casing or housing then bolts to the crankcase while lining up the slot in the rotating barrel thing with the pin on the crank.

Then the carb mounts to the front of this casing..

well the metal barrel thing that rotates by the crank pin on the end of the crank has an aluminum piece in it that look like a ramp/wedge and my guess would be it deflects fuel into the hole in the housing and into the crankcase.

This liitle wedge afffair is not fastened to the steel barrel and I am wondering if it should be and if so what woud I use to fasten it there.

I cannot post the pics so is If I e-mailed them to you would hou have a look or post them for me.

Thanks

Terry
Here are some pictures from terry, showing the parts he is talking about.

hopes it helps.
 
Terry

It looks to me somebody made a ramp drum rotor out of it and the plug came out of the drum

See if the aluminum piece fits in the end of the small end of the steel part

Henry
 
that is what I think as well.

I just purchased the engine and it was hard to start, no power and would not pushe the boat very well.

later in the day i went to try it again and irt would hitch up ath Bottom dead centre.

I think the step that is in the end of the wedge was hitting the crank??

The engine had not been run for a while.When i took it apart i could see where the slanted side of the aluminum wedge/ramp had been setting in the hole actually restricting fuel flow, not ramping it into the engine.

th pointed part also had moved ahead and had been rubbing on the back of the carb casing.

I have taken some more pics the first 2 are where found it and the 2 nd are where i think it should be based on light wear marks where the crank has been touching it as well as the outline of the wedge from sittong in the steel drum.

i really suck at posting pics so i may have to get dan to do it for me B) .

1)I think i am on the right track but if so how do I re-fasten the aluminum piece to the drum.

2)if needed can I use regular "o" rings for INSIDE the carb or do i need special ones for the nitro fuel.

I know the regular ones are fine for sealing the outside of the carb but just wondering about inside.

This carb requires 2 insid of the carb. and they are getting checked.

Thanks a lot

Terry
 
Terry

It looks to me somebody made a ramp drum rotor out of it and the plug came out of the drum

See if the aluminum piece fits in the end of the small end of the steel part

Henry
Here you go guys, Terry has supplied me with more pictures, hope it helps a bit more.
 
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Terry

I would just leave the peice out of the drum rotor -- they realy don,t make THAT much difference to put up with that type of BS

Henry
 
My A45 has the exact same ramp. I think it's there from factory. I also had a hard time getting my A45 to run. It always seemed like it was lacking fuel.....Then I took the so called carb appart. The carb does not allow near enough fuel at 50% content to allow the engine to run. the carb was designed for 20-30% tops. I made a mount and put a Picco 45 carb on it and what a difference. I ran the origonal carb with the fuel line directly onto the carb nipple. Even with that the engine ran lean and not enough fuel.
 
I have been told these engines are designed to run with 10-20% nitro.

I am running 30%Nitro.

If i remove the ramp as suggested then that leaves a hole the diameter of the ramp so you can look right in and see the crank/pin and bearings. that would not operate properly.

Nireosniffer.

would you be able to e-mail me pics of what you did with your A45 .How you made the mount and installed the carb.Just looking for idea's that's all.

[email protected]

Thanks guys.any more ideas of what i can do to make this thing work

Terry
 
These engings won't hold up to high nitro, stay with the 20 %...The cases are too thin for the high pressure built up by the higer nitro,and the rods are too week also...I blew up a few trying to use the higer nitros..Split the cases ,bent the rods and broke the pistons skirts..
 
Roy I have 12 gallons of 30% with 20% oil would this be too much nitro for these engines.

I have a used ops .45 coming soon.should i just install that one and sell the A45 pip ??

Terry
 
Do you guys think loctite 680 retaining compound would work to hold the aluminum wedge in the steel drum.

I am thinking about trying it letting it setupa and then testing with some fuel to see the affects.

terry
 
Another thing you can try is to punch around the edge of the aluminum ramp. This will flange the edge and help hold it. I am not sure about the lock tight. I think the problem it will have is holding up to the nitro.

Mike

You could also have someone machine one out of delrin .005" to large and have it pressed in.
 
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Thanks guys ,i have applied the loctite 680 and will let cure for 48 hours and let ir soak for a couple hours in fuel to see what happens.

I thought of punching arong the edge but did not do it.

I will keep an eye on it when I start running the engine again and if it does not hold and doesn't take the con rod out :angry: I'll try something else.

Is delrin the hard plastic type material and can it be purchased in round stock.

I think my goose call is made of delrin

Terry
 
Roy I have 12 gallons of 30% with 20% oil would this be too much nitro for these engines.

I have a used ops .45 coming soon.should i just install that one and sell the A45 pip ??

Terry
It would be alright if you don't try to lean it too much..It won't take too high of the Rev's. I have a almost brand new sleve and head button and drum ass if you need them.. Only a few sec on them :D :angry: ,
 
Roy, i'll see what happens and hopefully i will not need the parts but if I do I will contact you.

thanks

Terry
 
Yes delrin is a hard plastic. What nice about it is that it is easily machineable.

Mike
 
The loctite 680 held very well and looks good so if it does not react to the nitro fuel i will be laughing.

If it lets go it could cost me the engine :angry:

If it does I have a used.45 ops on the way that i bought here on the classifieds as well.

thanks for the help

Terry
 
As soo as I get beck from Al's race I'll send the pics of the carb set up. I have been running 50% in her for some time and not a problem. I think the engine is very well built and can handle high nitro if set up for it. I do believe there were motors built for low nitro and high nitro. I'll let you know how it works out as I plan to let her fly wide open this weekend.
 
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