Dummy motors

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You can mount it on a piece of plywood but keep in mind any air restriction might affect engine performance. If you mount on plywood cut some slots in it. You will need to get some 90 degree water fittings for the water jacket to keep the water lines tight to the motor. You definitely want to make sure the lines don't get pinched when the dummy motor is put in place, Here's some photos of my Checkboard that had the dummy motor on a plate.

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bardahl.JPGBardahl 11.JPGBardahl 12.JPG
 
Jr, I did not.. I hinged mine in the front like Phil Thomas does.. it was super nice for starting and there was little chance it would poop off the boat and become a floater!

Bty.. I have a VERY nice set of valve covers I make for the Allison. I can send ya a set if you like.. NC.

Grim
 
Mine was a resin job from Larry Kraemer. Jim at Scale 3D really makes some nice printed pieces that are much lighter, look better and are easier to finish than resin parts. Bill Brandt has some printed scale drivers/steering wheels that are very nice.

If this going to be an all out competition boat you may want to consider putting the radio box up from the bottom in front of the motor. If you are going to add weight to the nose to it's better to have something that's actually functional, rather than just dead weight like lead.

This hinging deal sounds pretty good. Maybe Mark can send you some photos.Bardahl Radio box 3.JPG
 
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Jr, I did not.. I hinged mine in the front like Phil Thomas does.. it was super nice for starting and there was little chance it would poop off the boat and become a floater!

Bty.. I have a VERY nice set of valve covers I make for the Allison. I can send ya a set if you like.. NC.

Grim
Grim:

Do you have a pic of the hinge arrangement on the dummy motor? I’m curious about a good way to mount this as well.

Thanks!

Rich
 
Mine was a resin job from Larry Kraemer. Jim at Scale 3D really makes some nice printed pieces that are much lighter, look better and are easier to finish than resin parts. Bill Brandt has some printed scale drivers/steering wheels that are very nice.

If this going to be an all out competition boat you may want to consider putting the radio box up from the bottom in front of the motor. If you are going to add weight to the nose to it's better to have something that's actually functional, rather than just dead weight like lead.

This hinging deal sounds pretty good. Maybe Mark can send you some photos.View attachment 286532
Mike:

So this radio box basically is inserted from the bottom then taped in or screwed in?

Thanks!

Rich
 
The bottom of the radio box was the piece I cut out of the bottom and built the box around that. I epoxied a piece 1/8" ply that overlapped the cut out and put 6/32 blind nuts in it and used 6/32 button head screws and flat washers. I put tape over the seams. Never seemed to leak. Although with the Picco it had a 14oz, main tank and a 2oz sump. With the CMB's and NR's you had better have at least 20 oz. of fuel. This was actually the first boat I ever built twenty years ago. John Logan lived just up the road and mentored me on the construction techniques. His brother Jerry did the beautiful paint job. It had Nachweih sponsons on it and was a really good handling race boat. Super stable in the turns and could run wide open in lane 1 like it was on a rail. I sold it to a guy in California.
 
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