Dumas Eagle

[Ed.R]

Received my Eagle kit today . As this is my first hydro any tips and things to do while building would be greatly appricated .

How do you set-up fuel tanks ? I really don't want to do it like the directions call for .

How about servo , I was thinking of moving the rudder servo to the back with it's own radio box so the steering rod isn't so long.

Any ideas

Ed

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I can think of a couple things:

1) Leave the rudder servo with the rest of the radio gear. Use an arrow whaft(yes, like in archery) with 4-40 rod ends in each end. There are fittings to attach the 4-40 shafts with, or you can silver solder them

2) Use the supplied framing as templates and replace all the "mahogany" with aircraft grade plywood as follows:

1/4" for right sponson and rear transoms

1/8" for lengthwise frames and left sponson transom

1/16" for everything else

3) Cut lightening holes in all the enclosed frames to cut weight

4) Stay away from Dumas hardware

 

[Ed.R]

2) Use the supplied framing as templates and replace all the "mahogany" with aircraft grade plywood

What the diffrences with mahogany over ply ?

 

[Hydro Junkie]

The supplied "mahogany" is basically door skin. It's poorus, brittle, heavy and weak. It's also a bear to get a good seal coat on it due to the low quality.

Aircraft ply is a very dense birch and is considerably stronger and, believe it or not, lighter. If you cut out the lightening holes as I put in my earlier post, you will have a boat that is 30-40% lighter than if built stock from the kit. If you want to see the difference, compare the framing with the skin panels supplied by Dumas.

 

[topfuel443]

I agree, the Dumas Mahogany sucks!

go with the airplane grade birch as stated. you will be glad you did.

~James

 

[Ed.R]

Ok ..... I'm making it with birch aircraft ply . I laid the mahogany frame up on my jig(DRY)and noticed the back couple of inches in the center section are not flat but raise up 1/2 or so I didn't measure it , at the back of the transom .Is this normal for hydros?

Ed

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Not that I've seen. But then again, this is a Dumas boat so anything is possible. I would build it with a flat bottom, which is one of the nice things about making all your own parts. A flat bottom is also easier to build than the three piece in the kit. You will need to redo the transom so that it's flat on the bottom when you trace it out

 

[Ed.R]

Not that I've seen. But then again, this is a Dumas boat so anything is possible. I would build it with a flat bottom, which is one of the nice things about making all your own parts. A flat bottom is also easier to build than the three piece in the kit. You will need to redo the transom so that it's flat on the bottom when you trace it out

Thanks for the advice , I'm sure I'll need alot more about hydros as this is my first. This is a great place for questions , as I use it often just ask the tunnel guys.

Ed

 

[piper_chuck]

Ed, it's great to see you making progress with this. I'm looking forward to seeing it run. Do you have a target for finishing it? What engine are you going to use?

 

[Ed.R]

Ed, it's great to see you making progress with this. I'm looking forward to seeing it run. Do you have a target for finishing it? What engine are you going to use?

Chuck , I would love to have it ready for the beginning of the season but I'm not going to rush and make it wrong just so I can run it . If it gets built in correct I won't gain anything with a bad hull plus I have to save up for all the other stuff I'll need for it .Hardware , servos , motor ect .

I'm thinking of a OPS from G$M great price for all you get . I 'm also loooking at the OS .46(tower site)

OPS would be a little cheaper

Ed

 

[piper_chuck]

Assuming you and the boys get a reasonable amount of time to work on it, the beginning of the season should be a good goal. There will be steps that go fast and others that seem to bog down. I had an OPS .45, it ran pretty well. I haven't run the OS .46, but I've got other OS engines, such as the .81 in my sprintcat and several airplane engines. They run well.

 

[Ed.R]

Assuming you and the boys get a reasonable amount of time to work on it

Thats another area of concern. Were getting in to busy time of year at work so who knows how that will work out and the up and coming holidays as well.

 

[Dr Hydro]

I laid the mahogany frame up on my jig(DRY)and noticed the back couple of inches in the center section are not flat but raise up 1/2 or so I didn't measure it , at the back of the transom .Is this normal for hydros?

Ed

Hey Ed....Build the rear end just like the plans tell you to. I forget the technical term for building the bottom that way but it makes it easier to get on plane. Another suggestion(I just built an Eagle myself) would be to do away with that pan that they tell you to put on the bottom to help drain water out of the boat. To help drain water I drilled quarter inch holes in the back left corner of each open compartment. That is where the water ends up when you take a right hand turn. Getting rid of the mahogany is a good idea. I had a Dumas boat split down the piece that forms the sponson inside. I realize that cartwheeling a boat along concrete rip rap is above and beyond the call of duty but it may have held together if it were made out of birch. If you have any other questions email me @ [email protected]. Good luck and God bless!

 

[Ed.R]

I laid the mahogany frame up on my jig(DRY)and noticed the back couple of inches in the center section are not flat but raise up 1/2 or so I didn't measure it , at the back of the transom .Is this normal for hydros?

Ed

Hey Ed....Build the rear end just like the plans tell you to. I forget the technical term for building the bottom that way but it makes it easier to get on plane. Another suggestion(I just built an Eagle myself) would be to do away with that pan that they tell you to put on the bottom to help drain water out of the boat. To help drain water I drilled quarter inch holes in the back left corner of each open compartment. That is where the water ends up when you take a right hand turn. Getting rid of the mahogany is a good idea. I had a Dumas boat split down the piece that forms the sponson inside. I realize that cartwheeling a boat along concrete rip rap is above and beyond the call of duty but it may have held together if it were made out of birch. If you have any other questions email me @ [email protected]. Good luck and God bless!

The 1/4" holes your talking about are in the stringers correct.

Do you use CA glue when it's in the jig then go back and use epoxy on the joints like a fillet .

Ed

 

[Dr Hydro]

The 1/4" holes your talking about are in the stringers correct.

Do you use CA glue when it's in the jig then go back and use epoxy on the joints like a fillet .

Ed

Hey Ed....The drain holes are drilled after the boat is finished. In the back left corner of each open compartment, align the drill parralel to the drive shaft and at a 45 degree angle. I forgot to mention that after drilling, I installed a short piece of brass tubing in the hole. This way, if water hits the hole, it is less likely to get in the boat. I will try and take a pic and send it to you. As far as gluing the hull, I laid down wax paper on the jig and used 45 min epoxy. Hope this helps. Jim