Dumas 1/8" scale Atlas templates

[Kez]

Anyone has a set of the Atlas framing that I can use?

I have used the standard Luan framing (a mistake) but have now changed my mind. I want to build the whole boat using only birch ply. Since the framing is already built I can not use it as template anymore.

If you have a set available, please let me know how much you would like for it.

Thanks,

Kez

 

[Hydro Junkie]

how far have you gone in the build? To an extent, the boat can be taken apart if you haven't gone too far

 

[Kez]

how far have you gone in the build? To an extent, the boat can be taken apart if you haven't gone too far

I have it all framed up. Sanded and bevelled the edges where the skin fits. I also have the tunnel floor glued. It is a daunting task to undo all the epoxy joints.

Why would Dumas use this Luan door skin ply for framing is beyond me.

kez

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Two reasons:

1) It's inexpensive to purchase

2) They die cut the kits and the Luan is easier on the dies than aircraft birch.

I would have to agree, you have gone too far. At this point, you might be best served to finish the boat as is and think of it as a learning experience

 

[jetpack]

Using a heat gun on the joints will soften up the epoxy enough to pull it apart without breaking I would think.

Keep going with the idea of looking for templates, much easier.

 

[glenng]

how far have you gone in the build? To an extent, the boat can be taken apart if you haven't gone too far

I have it all framed up. Sanded and bevelled the edges where the skin fits. I also have the tunnel floor glued. It is a daunting task to undo all the epoxy joints.

Why would Dumas use this Luan door skin ply for framing is beyond me.

kez

Kez, The Luan is inferior to the birch ply-but can be made to work by sealing it well, making sure water drains well from all areas of the hull and adding birch ply or carbon fibre doublers everyplace hardware mounts to the hull-the luan compresses very easily and after a few runs all your hardware will be loose and holes will start to elongate if these doublers are not used.

Glenn

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Good point Glenn. Also, unless you use blind nuts, I would recommend instaling Stainless Steel sleeves ANYPLACE you plan on running a screw through the luan. This will prevent the holes from distorting and prevent the luan from compressing as easily. Stay away from the threaded inserts as well as the luan isn't strong enough to hold them under load

 

[Kez]

Thanks all for your replies. I have ended up buying a new kit from a member on IW. I will then have the templates to build two boats.

Using heat gun will soften the epoxy for sure and I have found the regular auto paint stripper to work as well. The problem is once the frame has been sanded and bevelled, it would not work very well as templates as each piece is now customized for the frame.

The SS sleeve is a very good idea and I will certainly implement it. In fact I will use it on any holes drilled in the boat. I noticed that even birch ply will soak up fuel and oil if the hole is not adaquatedly sealed. I will start using brass or SS tubing for the holes.

Another thought is to replace the Luan with Occume. This is done in the interest of lightness. Occume is noticeable lighter than birch ply; although more flexible. I would think Occume would be OK for deck/skin.

To those who has built this boat, what kind of speed I can expect from it with a Picco .67 for power?

Thanks,

Kez

 

[glenng]

Thanks all for your replies. I have ended up buying a new kit from a member on IW. I will then have the templates to build two boats.

Using heat gun will soften the epoxy for sure and I have found the regular auto paint stripper to work as well. The problem is once the frame has been sanded and bevelled, it would not work very well as templates as each piece is now customized for the frame.

The SS sleeve is a very good idea and I will certainly implement it. In fact I will use it on any holes drilled in the boat. I noticed that even birch ply will soak up fuel and oil if the hole is not adaquatedly sealed. I will start using brass or SS tubing for the holes.

Another thought is to replace the Luan with Occume. This is done in the interest of lightness. Occume is noticeable lighter than birch ply; although more flexible. I would think Occume would be OK for deck/skin.

To those who has built this boat, what kind of speed I can expect from it with a Picco .67 for power?

Thanks,

Kez

As I recall the kit comes with birch ply for the decking-use it. If you want the boat to be lighter remove excess material from the birch ply bulkheads(under the deck skin). You can chain drill the excess out before glue but after dry fitting. The rough edges the chain drilling leaves can be smoothed up with a 1/2"- 1" drum sander in a high speed grinder or drill. If someone could post a pic of a Blazer Laughterback hull before it's skinned you would see- all excess weight is removed. Delete the ride pads on the sponsons and forget the divot in the strut area on the bottom of the hull-makes it very difficult to run a pipe out the transom and speedmaster hardware will not fit. Make your own radio box-put it on the right and run the pipe out the left. I'd have to admit I'm not up on my woodworking but I think okume is a softer wood like luan and lite ply is poplar and is softer than birch. The 6-32 screws that hold the turn fin bracket on seem weak- use 8-32 or 10-32.

Good luck, Glenn

Kez