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SayMikey

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2003
Messages
12,685
Be sure to inspect the flywheel cone before you start. Running. I just tore a friends down and cone wear caused a slight flywheel rub killing the whole motor. This fine shavings get sucked into the front bearing. Jus do good inspections. OFTEN
 
Good Reason for the CMB Guys to make them .050-.100 longer. Picco 45 had the same issue, When the Stainless cone was drawn up we ask for .100 longer for that same reason.
 
mike...

cone=flywheel collet?

flywheel galled facing the collet?

can we shim the collet with gasket material? would that work?
 
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A few things to do to prevent this. 1st- Remve a few thousands off the inside of the flywheel. This would require a lathe. 2nd- Every time you diassemble, Remove the cone from the flywheel and gentle spread it back open. A chisel or screwdriver tapped in the slot very slightly. I have not had this problem since.

Not doing this will eventualy lead to case replacement. As the flywheel will rub the case and eat into the bearing. Then all kinds of bad things happen.
 
John do you use a square drive? Most West coast guys use square drive and this problem is not near as bad as a collet. The only fix I have found is a new cone at least once a year,im to the point im thinking of switching to square drive.
 
Had the same problem with a 45HR right out of the box. We cut the flywheel on the lathe.

If you start your motor and get black debris coming from the flywheel. You have the problem.
 
John do you use a square drive? Most West coast guys use square drive and this problem is not near as bad as a collet. The only fix I have found is a new cone at least once a year,im to the point im thinking of switching to square drive.
Yes most use a square drive. I have been but am switching to the round. I like the Acutec struts. The hole drive train is stronger and lighter than the square set up. When I did use the square I would make the shaft long enough to push on the engine ellimanting the need for thrust washers on the stub shaft. Worked really well. I only had the flywheel issue once. doing what I posted got rid of that problem. I generally turn down the flywheels anyway to lighten them up. The lighter they are the quicker the jump to max rpm. Less rotating mass = more hp.
 
Mikey if you can find someone to make them out of 303 stainless and .100 longer the problem would be resolved.303 stainless Makes No metal Dust if it spins.
 
Be sure to inspect the flywheel cone before you start. Running. I just tore a friends down and cone wear caused a slight flywheel rub killing the whole motor. This fine shavings get sucked into the front bearing. Jus do good inspections. OFTEN
Mike is correct. I noticed this several years back that the flywheel cone would wear into the inner race of the small bearing. There is very little clearance between the flywheel and crankcase. There are three options to fix this problem: (1) Releave flywheel on a lathe (2) Shim the flywheel cone between it and the bearing or (3) buy a new cone and change it after every other crank bearing change. Cones are cheap===$9.00

Stu
 
I would make a harden washer and put between the cone and bearing.I had to do this on the 21;s

Dave Roach
 
Is this a common problem? Why doesn't CMB address this issue at their end? I mean, when you spend top dollar, they should correct this. just sayin'
 
Duck its not a problem as long as you are aware whats going on. And pay attention to end play, Thats why I posted so everyone knew what to look for
 
Thanks for the heads up, I need to check out mine before I run them. Ice went out in my neighborhood on Saturday,nearly a month early. :D
 
Yeah I had my experince before first problem OPS also Picco both brass cone " short term" then eat burr and rub . :blink: I can't believe that Good MAC engines can stand long term than CMB . I was disappoint that MAC engine were gone out of phase ( No longer)
 
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