Bud T-4 set up help

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NITROSNIFER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2004
Messages
1,476
I am working through some issues with set up on my T-4. At slower speeds almost full rudder it needs a football field to turn. and if I give it full it spins. I am going through several issues and strut depth is one of them. I could use a good starting point or pictures of your strut. I have had it going good a few times but water getting sucked in to the engine made the running erratic. Has since switched to a K-67 to see how that works.

Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I am working through some issues with set up on my T-4. At slower speeds almost full rudder it needs a football field to turn. and if I give it full it spins. I am going through several issues and strut depth is one of them. I could use a good starting point or pictures of your strut. I have had it going good a few times but water getting sucked in to the engine made the running erratic. Has since switched to a K-67 to see how that works.

Thanks in advance.
A couple Q's for you to start with-
How wide is the rudder blade?

How deep is the blade running below the strut?

Which side of the boat is rudder on?

How far off the transon is rudder leading edge?

What style of turn fin?

Where is CG at?

I've had a couple T-4's over the years and every one was particular about how it was set up.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey Kevin,

In addition to Don's questions:

1. Does the hull launch without issue, or does it take a long time to get on plane??

2. What is the ride angle once on plane?

3. Who's hull design is it?

4. What does the hull bottom (Sponsons) look like?

5. Can you provide us with a pic of the hull on a flat surface so we can see what the sponson angles, etc. look like ?

6. What does it weigh?

CHEERS !!! Bob
 
I am working through some issues with set up on my T-4. At slower speeds almost full rudder it needs a football field to turn. and if I give it full it spins. I am going through several issues and strut depth is one of them. I could use a good starting point or pictures of your strut. I have had it going good a few times but water getting sucked in to the engine made the running erratic. Has since switched to a K-67 to see how that works.

Thanks in advance.
A couple Q's for you to start with-
How wide is the rudder blade?

How deep is the blade running below the strut?

Which side of the boat is rudder on?

How far off the transon is rudder leading edge?

What style of turn fin?

Where is CG at?

I've had a couple T-4's over the years and every one was particular about how it was set up.

Don, this is the T-4 that I got from you. I sold it to Kevin this year. I never had time to get it going.....

med_gallery_128_751_83985.jpg


med_gallery_128_751_47179.jpg


med_gallery_128_751_120260.jpg


med_gallery_128_751_63550.jpg
 
Part of the turning problem could be that long rudder bracket. I've heard and seen time and time again that the longer the bracket, the wider the turn as the boat acts like it's longer. Since that looks like Speedmaster hardware, I'd experiment with the the bracket length using the two shortest sizes and see if that helps
 
Part of the turning problem could be that long rudder bracket. I've heard and seen time and time again that the longer the bracket, the wider the turn as the boat acts like it's longer. Since that looks like Speedmaster hardware, I'd experiment with the the bracket length using the two shortest sizes and see if that helps
I agree, since my Smokin Joes has the same rudder set up and does not turn as well as I think it should. Its an easy experiment as I will cut off the bracket on the joe and try it...... The rudder should be forward of the current position anyway.....as all my boats that turned well had the rudder beside the prop about an inch from the transom.....
 
Part of the turning problem could be that long rudder bracket. I've heard and seen time and time again that the longer the bracket, the wider the turn as the boat acts like it's longer. Since that looks like Speedmaster hardware, I'd experiment with the the bracket length using the two shortest sizes and see if that helps
The rudder set back works on that boat, I've run that same hull (Dick Caspari Thunderboat Reproductions) set up just like it. I would be curious as to how much rudder throw it has and the depth of the strut. If the strut is too deep the front end will plow at low speeds and not turn well. And that is not Speedmaster hardware, I believe the actual name of it is H2O, made by Caspari's son.
 
It did start to run better as I raised the strut. I just need to get the darn thing to start running consistent. I was using a Picco blue head and the combo I know works as I have it in my other scales. It was really plowing to get up on plane and it's washing down the cowl and I think that's how the water is filling the hull. the few times I had it running good went like stink. But it took a good hard launch and I want to be able to have anyone launch it. Thanks for the info.
 
It did start to run better as I raised the strut. I just need to get the darn thing to start running consistent. I was using a Picco blue head and the combo I know works as I have it in my other scales. It was really plowing to get up on plane and it's washing down the cowl and I think that's how the water is filling the hull. the few times I had it running good went like stink. But it took a good hard launch and I want to be able to have anyone launch it. Thanks for the info.
Get a 90 degree elbow for the rc car/truck guys. Stick it on the carb,this will help keep water out of the engine when launching and slowing down. Yet another fix is to put a strip around the inside of hull opening to stop water from entering on the launch. A carb sucking on launch will try to suck it under the cowl.... PM me your email for some pics
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It did start to run better as I raised the strut. I just need to get the darn thing to start running consistent. I was using a Picco blue head and the combo I know works as I have it in my other scales. It was really plowing to get up on plane and it's washing down the cowl and I think that's how the water is filling the hull. the few times I had it running good went like stink. But it took a good hard launch and I want to be able to have anyone launch it. Thanks for the info.
I think you just answered your own question. Measuring at the rear of the strut what is the distance from the bottom of the boat to the centerline of the prop shaft? And what prop are you trying to run on it?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It's 1 1/8" at the center line. I've tried several different props from X450, X457 1460 1462 all seem to do the same thing.

002-14.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes that is were the tanks sit. I have made all the adjustments to the strut and will be testing tomorrow. Strut set at 1" zero deg angle. Will post how things go.

Kevin
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Latest posts

Back
Top