Boat Paint Jobs

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Chris Thomas

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
472
Looking for information on painting a hull. They have a big number of colors available and are very inexpensive. I have been researching painting with some of the AutoAir acrylic paints. Has anybody used these type paints with success. The website says they are compatible with all paints. And would be fuel proof when cleared properly....
 
Looking for information on painting a hull. They have a big number of colors available and are very inexpensive. I have been researching painting with some of the AutoAir acrylic paints. Has anybody used these type paints with success. The website says they are compatible with all paints. And would be fuel proof when cleared properly....
I have two boats painted with there couours at the moment.

Paint is fast drying and lays down well.

This pain is a water base so the clear is what protects the paint job that you do on your boat.

Still learning different painting styles and gun control. Clean up with the auto air is great. Try the stuff out and have fun with all of the different colours avalable. Mix and match can be fun.
 
So Thomas, it sounds like you like the stuff. I had another thread going (could've been on JRCBD?) about this paint. It seems like I got mixed reviews on it.

I spent quite a bit of time on the AutoAir website as well. How well does the paint cover? Do you have to shoot a lot of coats to get it to cover?
 
I have been trying it out. I shot some wood and plastic (plexiglass) with a white spraybomb primer. The primer laid down really nice. I shot some of the AutoAir transparent colors over the top of it without sanding it (trying to see how forgiving the paint could be) and it orange peeled real bad. The acrylic did actually fill in while it dried, minimizing the peel. But this was on a flat horizontal surface, paint facing up...I think if the stuff has more time it sag it would. I am going to try light sanding to see if the previous is worst case scenario. They say on the website to use many thin coats. I believe them. I think this stuff will be pretty trick once you figure out the learning curve. The colors are unlimited. The paints are inexpensive so you can mix shades and hues till you get tired for minimal costs. And I can shoot it in the house during these sub zero winter days....
 
I have been trying it out. I shot some wood and plastic (plexiglass) with a white spraybomb primer. The primer laid down really nice. I shot some of the AutoAir transparent colors over the top of it without sanding it (trying to see how forgiving the paint could be) and it orange peeled real bad. The acrylic did actually fill in while it dried, minimizing the peel. But this was on a flat horizontal surface, paint facing up...I think if the stuff has more time it sag it would. I am going to try light sanding to see if the previous is worst case scenario. They say on the website to use many thin coats. I believe them. I think this stuff will be pretty trick once you figure out the learning curve. The colors are unlimited. The paints are inexpensive so you can mix shades and hues till you get tired for minimal costs. And I can shoot it in the house during these sub zero winter days....
Are you painting a solid color, mural, fading colors together or just playing. I have many different kinds of paints and I use them for different purposes. If you are going to use a transparent or candy color then you need a base color first.
 
I am trying to get a feel for these right now. I sprayed some of the transparent over the spray bomb primer. It set but it never dried. It is very sticky sort of like a bumper sticker....will the base coat set over the epoxy primer? The opaques did set pretty hard.
 
I am trying to get a feel for these right now. I sprayed some of the transparent over the spray bomb primer. It set but it never dried. It is very sticky sort of like a bumper sticker....will the base coat set over the epoxy primer? The opaques did set pretty hard.
I've never had much luck with spray can primers. They always seem to react with automotive paints. Even the auto primers out of the can will react sometimes, especially with the heavy metal flakes. Don't worry, when you do it for real it will come together. Just let the base cure first before shooting the cool stuff. A gold or silver metal flake always looks good under candys or transparent color
 
Thanks for all the info Wes. The LusterCote primer has served me pretty well the last two boats. It covers well but really thins out before it dries. Surfaces have to be real pretty before priming. definately not a fast build primer. I also used the LusterCote paints to prevent problems from mixing manufacturers products. The other nice thing is that you can match sprayed areas with the LusterCote "stickers" from the LHS. I have also had custom vinyl cutters make graphics from these sheets too.

I think the biggest part of what I am doing is improving my terrible paint skills. I am enjoying it also.
 
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