Black Jack 26 setup

[obrien]

Right now I am waiting on my new ammo motor and hydra 120 to get here. I am wonding what you guys would suggest for my batteries. I am currently running a set of venom 3000 7.2s and I have a set of tenergy 8.4 4200. What other batteries should I look at. I am not ready just yet for lipos, but I am getting closer. I need to upgrade the hardware before I go that far. As of right now I still have the stock motor, but the ESC started acting up on me, so it is on its way back to proboat. I am not sure how long I will wait to put in the ammo since Avanti27 and I are going to have some races on the new pond that we found.

Once I am ready for lipos, what battery setup would you use.

What props should I use when I have some more power?

thanks

 

[AlanN]

I don't beleive that many of us know much about the proboats stock motor. Size and Kv that is.

Can't help you with the old school cells either. I have not used anything but lipo for the past 2 yrs.

What I can tell you is that the ammo can (if that is what you actually have) is good motor for a 4S1P setup on a light boat. Props for that setup would be in the 37-40mm dia size (estimate). Since different hulls like different props. Monos take more amperage to motivate whereas a cat or rigger require less.

Good luck.

 

[obrien]

I don't beleive that many of us know much about the proboats stock motor. Size and Kv that is.
Can't help you with the old school cells either. I have not used anything but lipo for the past 2 yrs.

What I can tell you is that the ammo can (if that is what you actually have) is good motor for a 4S1P setup on a light boat. Props for that setup would be in the 37-40mm dia size (estimate). Since different hulls like different props. Monos take more amperage to motivate whereas a cat or rigger require less.

Good luck.

Thank you for the reply. Yes I do have an ammo coming. It is the 36-50-2300. From what I have been told the stock motor is in the 1500-1600 range.

What brank of lipos have you been using?

I am just getting back into rc boats so you have to forgive me on the lipo questions. Since I have to run a pair of battery packs in my cat, should I look at a a pair of 7.4 volt 2s1p packs to run in series, or should I go with a pair of 4s packs and run them in parallel?

 

[AlanN]

Flight Power and Polyquest are the only 2 brands that I have personlly used. I think the F/P cells are tops but for sport running not necessary. Jay Turner wrote 2 good articles on using lipos in the last 2 Rc Boat medeller mags.....they would be a good start for anyone who has not used them yet.

I would reccomend (2) 2S1P packs. It would be easier to balnce the hull and you would have 2 packs for E1 classes or (1) 2S2P.

BTW I use 4900 and 5000 mah cells.

The ammo can will run well on a 4S1P 5000mah pack for 2-5minutes....depending on your prop and setup. I have ran this in an old P sport hull that is heavy. Speeds in the mid 40's without any real tuning.

The above should also work well with your 'stock set up'.

Oh and I highly suggest buying a watercooling can from Offshore Electrics. Not the neoprene kind but the aluminum jacket style.

 

[obrien]

Thanks for the info. I will keep all of this in mind once I get ready to buy lipos. What charger do you recomend for those batteries?

Today I put in a set up 6 cell trinity 4200s and man what a difference. I couldn't believe how well the boat runs. I would say those trinities run right along with my 7 cell 4200 tenergy batteries that I bought. I really didn't think there would be that much of a difference.

I am hoping to get some speeds on radar tomorrow with the different batteries, and I may throught the ammo in to see what it will do as well.

 

[AlanN]

I personally use the Hyperion 12i. It is a very good charger especially if used with their balancer and data port. You can see the V of each cell when ever you want. This a good way to keep an eye on your lipos and once you start seeing fluctuation of V or capacity staring to drop you know that the cells are near the end of their life.

There are other good chargers out there but I really don't have experience with them.

 

[T.S.Davis]

Hey Alan, I have one of these on my bench. Bare bones with no hardware. Really strange bottom on it. Typically I'm accustomed to slight dihedral type ride surface. The pads on the first two steps are tipped the opposite direction (anhedral?) and then the last pad is basically flat.

Ever seen one like that? Not sure how it's going to handle. I'm ditching the steerable strut and putting a deep rudder on it.

 

[AlanN]

Nope. Never seen that on a good working cat. I don't even know of a gas cat doing that.

If the opposing steps are part of the running surface I would check to make sure they are very parallel with each other or the hull might be 'fighting' itself.

Removing the power robbing steerable drive is good but make sure you put a skegged strut on it.

Is this for a spec class Terry...or are you just playing around?

 

[T.S.Davis]

Well, when I picked it up I was thinking SSO but it's pretty short. Then I was thinking maybe N2/E1 Offshore. I'm still mixed. I'll try it with the AC motor and see how it handles it. I've already got the old Titan workhourse set up for our club class. Not the fastest setup but that class is about all of us running deck to deck anyway.

We had a guy running a Blackjack at our last race. 4s 4350's on a 642 and it GPS'd at 41 mph WITH! WITH! that stock stearable strut. Pretty impressive really. Runs nice and flat in a straight line. Just couldn't turn it. The bottom is very symetrical but I've just never seen steps like that. They may actually be part of the turning issue. I haven't seen one with a seperate strut and rudder setup run yet. The water is hard already up here.

The lay-up on the glass is pretty impressive too for an inexpensive hull. Epoxy and cloth best I can tell. Not polyester and chopped mat.

I'm hoping I can get it to perform. I'm actually pretty impressed with it so far.

Was Paul running a skeg on that Drifter he was using for N2 Offshore. I remember him using a long rudder (speedmaster maybe?) but I can't remember the strut. Maybe he'll chime in.

 

[obrien]

I will probably be going with the Twisted liquid package for mine. Its only $60.

Just one question though. What is the benefit of an offset rudder vs an inline rudder with the prop.

 

[T.S.Davis]

With the inline rudder, when you turn it actually deflects the thrust cone in the direction your turning. That can work in some cases and spin you in others. The setups I've tried have made for a nice straight and a gnarly turn. I've just not had much luck with it but I know some people swear by it.

I was going to pull parts out of my bucket O' parts but if there's a package deal already abvailable maybe I'll do that. Aeromarine sells a package for the BJ26 but not with a skeg strut. Where can I see the twisted liquid setup?

 

[obrien]

http://www.twistedliquidracing.com/blackjack.html

The picture shown is on the nitro boat, but they have the same setup for the brushless. They also told me that the water pick up is on the strut. The best pic to look at for the electric setup is on their hydro model. That pick shows what the set up will look like. They also told me that by the middle or so of december they will have a rudder with the water pick up integrated into it.

 

[AlanN]

As Terry said...the inline rudder will rob you of speed....it pushes the water right onto the rudder.

If you want to try something different put the rudder to the right (if looking at the transom) of the strut.

A skeg on the strut will help direct the hull. I ran a small cat for a couple of years that was wicked fast but when I went through the turn (no skeg) I scrubbed off all kinds of speed and had too much rudder input to get her around the buoys.