Any plumbers on this forum?

[Kez]

I have a toilet shutoff valve that is leaky and need advice.
Can the valve be repair by replacing the rubber washer? I have never opened on up before and want to know what I am dealing with before working on it.

Thanks,
k

 

[Steve White]

Picture would probably helpful. Not a real plumber here, but have DIY'd plenty of toilet repairs.

 

[Kez]

Hi Steve,
The pipe and the valve is one piece and the pipe telescopes over a 1/2" pipe. So it is not easy to replace it.
I would like to know if this valve has a washer that I can replace. But I need to be sure before I open it up or I will need to shut off the water main.
Thanks,
k

 

[Ray Sametz]

 

[Steve White]

Hi Steve,
The pipe and the valve is one piece and the pipe telescopes over a 1/2" pipe. So it is not easy to replace it.
I would like to know if this valve has a washer that I can replace. But I need to be sure before I open it up or I will need to shut off the water main.
Thanks,
k

Follow what Ray posted is my advise. My house is copper pipes, so much of what i do for maintenance ivvolves soldering. Find the water shutoff valve and take a picture of it, go to supply house and get a proper tool to shut water off/on. Doesn't have to be professional level, home improvement center grade is fine.

Main water supply must be shut off - you may want to turn off the hot water heater while water is shut off.

Rebuilding a valve in-place is technically possible, it's never done that way. You'd never find the correct fitting parts, and even if you the valve body could be corroded, pitted, cracked.

Also replace the line from the valve to the toilet. If I were doing it, I would while working on it replace the float valve and flapper too. Then you're good for another 10 years.

 

[Kez]

Thanks Ray and Steve for your replies.
The problem I have is that the valve is sweat to a 1/2" copper pipe. The valve telescopes over a 1/2 " pipe. I cannot use a compression fitting. And because there is only about 3" of 1/2" pipe that sticks out from the wall, I will need professional help unsoldering the old valve. I am hoping there is a washer that i can replace

k

 

[Steve White]

Ok fair enough, i wasn't sure if the stub out was galvanized steel or copper. If you're not sure about soldering and don't have the equipment - I won't even attempt to walk you through that process. Not just soldering, but wicking water from the piping so you can solder it.

 

[Don Ferrette]

If it's just a drip issue before you replace it take the knob off and you should see a smaller hex nut behind it. Try to tighten that just a little to tighten up the packing seal around the stem. You should only need to go a 1/4 turn or less and above all DO NOT FORCE IT!! The packing around the shaft wears down and that nut allows you to compress it a bit further as it does.

 

[Kez]

Don,

It is not leaking from the stem. So the packing seal is fine. It is not shutting water off. So the tank keeps getting filled. I want to replace the tank to toilet spud gasket but I now need to repair the valve first. Do you know the construction of these valves? Is there a rubber washer inside?

Thanks,
k

 

[Don Ferrette]

Don,

It is not leaking from the stem. So the packing seal is fine. It is not shutting water off. So the tank keeps getting filled. I want to replace the tank to toilet spud gasket but I now need to repair the valve first. Do you know the construction of these valves? Is there a rubber washer inside?

Thanks,
k

OK saw the rag in the pic, thought it was dripping.

 

[David Murany]

Try closing the valve completely and re opening a few times. It's a long shot but could have build up of rust or calcium on the end of the sealing part inside the valve. If that doesn't work then shut off the water main supply as suggested before and remove the plunger of the valve and make a trip to the Depot to see if they have the correct pieces to rebuild.

 

[Wasted wages]

First off be happy that there is 3" of copper sticking out of the wall... a lot of houses only have an inch or less to work with. that would be a piece of cake for someone familiar with soldering...

second, I don't really recommend these, but if you go to Lowes, they sell shut off valves that ARE compression fitting on the inlet side ..
you would have to shut off the water, cut off the existing valve, clean the pipe with some sand cloth, and install the new valve just like any other compression fitting.
The reason I don't recommend these is, most compression fittings are designed to be used with soft copper, the pipe coming out of the wall is hard drawn, and doesn't compress very well when tightened up.
Will it work ? probably, but the best thing would be to anneal the end of the copper when the valve is cut off.

Since it would be a simple solder job for a plumber, I doubt it would cost very much to get one soldered on. 100 bucks maybe ??

good luck !

 

[Wasted wages]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCr..._-pip_sem_mobile-_-205217348-_-202047058-_-N&

 

[Wasted wages]

These are even easier....
they just push lock when installed...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...gle-Stop-Valve-23036-0000LF/202270612#overlay

 

[Ray Sametz]

If that valve is not leaking, leave in place and shut off main. Disconnect supply line and buy new 1/4 turn valve 3/8 female comp to 3/8 male comp. Connect to old valve. Take a pic to plumbing store and explain.

 

[Mike Hughes]

If it is sweated on to begin with, that copper pipe is already annealed. I would use the compression type values. Just cut it near the valve. You will have to shut off the main. I had the same sweated on valve with the built in flex. I had the flex break when I was repairing the filler valve one time. I switched them all out to the quarter turn valves and replaced with SS flex line. Very handy. Makes it shutting it off easier incase you plug the toilet after you flushed. No more poo water everywhere mess. If you going down this road. I would replace everything since you have it apart. Filler valve, flapper, tank to toilet bolt seals. Should be less than 50 for all those parts. Worth the time to do it all.
Mike

 

[Steve White]

^^^ 10-4 on replacing everything. Once problems appear, it's just a matter of time when the next failure manifests. Do it all is always best practice.

 

[Kez]

Thank you all for your replies and suggestions. This is a great forum. Lot's of knowledge on just about everything.

Since the 1/2" copper pipe was sweated, I am not sure how I can clean up the solder so that the compression ferrule can fit.

I bought a 3/8 cap and managed to stop the shutoff valve. Now I can remove the tank. And I found out why it is leaking. The builder must have hired a handy man instead of a plumber to install these toilets. The two bolts that hold the tank to the toilet should have rubber washer on both inside the tank and outside. The outside rubber washer should be backed by a steel washer and a nut. This will provide a good seal and also prevent the nuts from chipping the porcelain. Guess what, there was no washers on the outside. I am surprised the tank held up all these years.

Fortunately, I was able to find the exact shutoff valve at Home Depot. So I will now open up the valve and see if the seating surface is OK, If so, it is just a matter of replacing the stem/washer

Thanks,
k

 

[Mike Hughes]

Solder comes off easy with heat. Then clean up with emery cloth. Done. I really like my 1/4 turn valves. Your screw valve takes for ever to shut off. Good luck.
Mike

 

[Thomas Hulbert]

There are also compression shut off valve types wrench nuts like on a collet also change out hard tank li e to a flex one home depot will have what you need .
Turn water off at main open sink tap to remove e pressure flush toilet either cut pipe back of valve or un solder remove tank line . Install new parts tightly . Turn on main water supply look for Leah's tighten more if some