Anatomy of a Sport 40

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Mark Bullard

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
1,806
I have 11 new boat in process of differant types. I had started taking pictures of a new Sport 40 that I have scales up from my new Sport 21. The Sport 12 profiles that I posted are of the new Sport 21 scales down from the new Sport 21 for 2009. Bob Tuttle had done a good job of posting pictures of his new boat on the dock with a beautiful wood buildup. I had so many people asking me about the wood over foam (WOF) I would do a build up of the new Sport 40.

I draw my boats on Autocad and plot the profiles out in full scale. Since I build many boats of the same kind I transfer the paper drawings to polycarbonate templates. I rip the plywood that I use to a little over the size of the part. I sack the parts up using double stick masking tape to as many as 6 pieces of 1/8" lite ply. The template for that part is placed on the stack of wood with the tape also. Using a router mounted in a table I then cut the parts with a bearing cutter that follows the template. The end results is perfect parts every time.

The next three pictures show the setup for making the foam tunnels.

The next two pictures show the tub setup in the jig for assembly and gluing.

Will post more as I go.
 
Next set of pictures.

Radio box top installed

Jig for cutting box opening

Cutting the opening

Cutting completed

Glue in the flange to hold the lid of the radio box

Completed top of radio box.

The jig for cutting the flange in 1/8" less than the top of the first cutout jig.

Installing the rear plate of the sponsons.

Notice the turn fin mounting nuts

Foam glued to profiles
 
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Next set of pictures.
Radio box top installed

Jig for cutting box opening

Cutting the opening

Cutting completed

Glue in the flange to hold the lid of the radio box

Completed top of radio box.

The jig for cutting the flange in 1/8" less than the top of the first cutout jig.

Installing the rear plate of the sponsons.

Notice the turn fin mounting nuts

Foam glued to profiles
Mark, that is an AWESOME system for building a wood boat....I love to build wood boats myself, especially sport hydros.....i hope you continue to post pictures as you progress with your project..... Bill
 
Rear chine installed

Cutting to profile for the bottom dihedral angle using the inside plate as a template

Bottom cut ready for wood

Top profile to cut using a template

When cutting the top profile always use the same setup angle from the bottom cut. This makes the side cut at 90 degrees to the top.

Profiles cut and sanded ready for wood sheeting on sides

Gluing the sides in place

The next cut is the side chine using the bottom templates

Chine sanded and ready for wood sheeting

Chine wood glued and installed
 
I got to have one!!!!!!! It will be a record class boat like my SST sport 21, SUPER FAST for the CLASS. If anyone is going to race sport 40 they need this boat to be competative. GTT
 
That was a nice plug my race partner gave me. And yes one of the Sport 40's will be his.

Next set of pictures. Things are starting to look like something.

Chine and side plate sanded and finished.

Bottoms sanded, ready for sheeting

Bottoms finished and sanded

Guess Ya wondered where the air tunnels had went. Saw set at 90 degrees to cut the bottom of the tunnels

Then set the saw angle to match the inside profile and the outside profile. This puts that angle in the top of the boat. The top of the canoes are cut on the same angle to match the top of the tunnels.

All parts sanded and ready to assemble

The fleet!!! There are two Sport 40's, two Sport 20's, three B hydro tubs behind those. And there are four twins behind me. I started all of these boats just before I posted the first pictures.
 
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Been working on other boats. But have been preping parts.

Cored out the unwanted material in the air tunnels.

By doing this it cut the weight of the part in half.

So for all the parts you seen weight only 650 grams or 1.72 lbs.

Install 1/32" ply for the top front of the tub from the radio box forward.

Install 1/32" ply piece to double the top for the nose of the cowl to lock under.

Boat shop 101 ( that's for you Mikey) will be close for the weekend. Going hunting. Next week will be starting to assemble the parts.
 
Been working on other boats. But have been preping parts.
Cored out the unwanted material in the air tunnels.

By doing this it cut the weight of the part in half.

So for all the parts you seen weight only 650 grams or 1.72 lbs.

Install 1/32" ply for the top front of the tub from the radio box forward.

Install 1/32" ply piece to double the top for the nose of the cowl to lock under.

Boat shop 101 ( that's for you Mikey) will be close for the weekend. Going hunting. Next week will be starting to assemble the parts.
Goble,goble or do you hunt wild BOAR
 
Been working on other boats. But have been preping parts.
Cored out the unwanted material in the air tunnels.

By doing this it cut the weight of the part in half.

So for all the parts you seen weight only 650 grams or 1.72 lbs.

Install 1/32" ply for the top front of the tub from the radio box forward.

Install 1/32" ply piece to double the top for the nose of the cowl to lock under.

Boat shop 101 ( that's for you Mikey) will be close for the weekend. Going hunting. Next week will be starting to assemble the parts.
Goble,goble or do you hunt wild BOAR

Deer and hogs of any type
 
Ok I am back for right now but will be leaving again tomorrow. I have been working on other boat the past couple of days. But here are the next set of pictures.

Cutting out the top openings

The finished opening

Drill and install tubing for water drains from motor area to rear of boat and to run the water pickup tubing thru the radio box to the motor. I use a home made drill that I cut a saw type cutter on a piece of brass tubing. This gives a nice clean hole plus it goes thru all of the bulkheads that need to be drilled

Top of boat left and right sides prepped

Bottom of boat prepped

Blindnuts installed for motor mount, mixture control, and shaft oiler

Tubes set for gluing air tunnels in place

First air tunnel glued

Both air tunnel glued in place ready for bottom

Squaring up and matching the parts of transom

Gluing the bottom in place

By weighting the boat down makes the boat flat and true. But boat must be set on a true flat surface
 
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Nice work Mark, keep 'em coming!
And you said my shop was neat! :rolleyes:

It takes a lot of work to keep them neat. I have got my vacuum system working very well now. I am having to plug the pickup tubes that I am not using to get a good vaccum. I have hoses on my radial arm saw, belt sanders, and my band saw. The radial arm saw does not work very well when I am ripping and my router make a little mess.

I used a 3" pvc trunk line over head that I installed above the ceiling when I build my work shop with 2" line for my drops. Think of it as your sewer pipes turn upside down. In sewer lines the pipe has to have fall. In other word things must move down the hill because it won't go up the hill. But with a air system you must have the pipes running a little up hill. This is because if some of the saw dust starts laying in the bottom of the pipe the air will blow right over the top of it and leave it in the pipe if it is going down hill. Over time the pipe will choke up. With the pipe going up hill it will keep the saw dust in the air flow and moving. I am using a combustion blower off a old 3 million btu burner. This thing moves a lot of air thru a single 2" pipe. From the blower it travels to a cyclone dropper that is vented thru the roof. And the bottom of the cyclone dropper drops the saw dust into a 35 gal drum. The cyclone dropper works a lot like these new vacuum cleaners that have no bags they are selling now that all the women like.
 
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Got back today and did some more boat work. All eleven boats are moving very fast. Got my B hydro tubs done ready for hardware holes, my Twin tubs done also ready for hardware holes, and my Sport 21 hydro's are right behind my Sport 40"s

With the bottoms glued in place, the canoes are ready to set. The extra ply that I left on the outside of the air tunnels must be trimmed to the flat area of the afterplane. This extra ply covers the bottom of the rear chines.

Trim bottom ply flush to chine.

Sanded and finished

Trimming end of canoes profiles for one piece transom. By install the transom in one piece it ties the parts together and make the boat very strong.

Transom and floor bottom doubler for strut mount.

This is a thru the bottom strut boat.

Bottom strut doubler installed.

Anybody got a drill that will cut a rectangle slot for the strut?

Transom installed

Nose block install on front of tub
 
Boat construction is complete. This boat is what I would call a 80% ready to be finished. I hope you have enjoyed this build and hope that I have been able to pass on some building tricks or idea's. There is nothing like building a boat from scratch with a few pieces of wood and foam and have it run well in a race. Even if it don't run well you have still learned something on what to change next time so that it will run well. I am planning on doing a part II of the build on finishing the boat to ready to run in a few weeks.

Top sheeting glued in place.

Doubler installed to stiffing top deck behind sponson

Top deck trim and sanded ready for tunnel nose and sponson nose blocks

Nose blocks sanded and boat construction finished
 
Awesome job Mark! Do you happen to have some pictures of one with a cowl? Just curious as to what the total package looks like.
 
Awesome job Mark! Do you happen to have some pictures of one with a cowl? Just curious as to what the total package looks like.
Thanks. Still have to make a plug for the cowl. But here is a picture of a Sport 21.
 
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