Aluminum pull-pull wheel

[Tony Newland]

Anyone know where I can get one of these?

 

[moparbarn]

hangar 9/horizon hobbies. my lhs stocks them, also. hobby hangar 703-631-8820, chantilly, va. they are happy to do phone orders. you will need to tell them what make servo & what size. hangar 9 calls them small, medium & large. medium is the most popular size for our tunnels, it is 1 3/8". large will give more leverage, if it will fit in your radio box, it is 1 3/4". hope this helps. i haven't had to buy any in a while, at one time hangar 9 had discontinued the medium size. but i was in hobby hangar last week, they had some. there is also a helicopter site in pa. that makes pull pull wheels. can't remember the name, but they will come up on a google search for pull pull wheels.

 

[moparbarn]

here ya go: www.ewtech.com

 

[Tony Newland]

Cool thanks guys.... I'm a dealer for horizon and found the large version, but it looks like they've discontinued the medium and smalls

The large Hanger 9 is 1 3/4" so that will probably fit in my VS1, I'll order one of those

Thanks

 

[Mike Culhane]

Cool thanks guys.... I'm a dealer for horizon and found the large version, but it looks like they've discontinued the medium and smalls

The large Hanger 9 is 1 3/4" so that will probably fit in my VS1, I'll order one of those

Thanks

Tony,

If the large turns out to be a little big (was for me), I have a couple of the small size to fit JR/Air servos. Let me know if you need one.

Mike

 

[Tony Newland]

I will, thanks Mike

 

[Tony Newland]

So the Hanger 9 wheel showed up today and it says its made for up to .040" wire.... and the wires that came with my VS1 are .050" dia.

So do I use them anyway or downsize to .040" or smaller?

What size are you guys using?

 

[Mike Culhane]

Tony,

I use #507 Gold-N-Cable made by Sullivan. It's only .032". I have been using this for some time now on my stock and mod Lynx's and have never had any issues. Even after some crazy high speed blow-off's.

Mike

 

[Tony Newland]

Awesome, thanks Mike. Ya the stock stuff seems heavy duty, I dont remember my others being that thick........ but that was years ago

 

[Mike Culhane]

Tony,

What size wheel did you end up with? The reason I like the small one is that it gives the most torque and the least amount of throw. Even with the small, I am dialing out a fair amount of steering. Just curious!

Mike

 

[Tony Newland]

I ended up ordering the large.... but your right I'll probably get one of the smalls in before I tear into it. I think the large will run into my throttle and mixture linkage just eyeballing it last night

Whats the setup on your VS1 as far as prop height/angle/CG point etc? I ran mine last weekend for the first time and granted I was still breaking in the engine but it was kind of a dog compared to my old Top Speed 1 w/OS XM

 

[Mike Culhane]

Tony,

The engine is off the VS-1 right now so can't give you any specifics. The set-up from the instructions is real close. The key to make these fast is: (1) O.S. engine-break in the motor then take out head shim and throw away. (2) Get yourself a Mark Sholund 1440 prop done up for VS-1. (3) Run high nitro. I run 60%. (4) Lean on the needle until it really starts to scream. These motors like to turn up. If it won't turn up, raise the motor in small increments. This should get you into the high forty's and close to fifty. Oh by the way Mark goes by Shoboat on I.W. Drop him a PM for the prop. Good Luck!

Mike

 

[Harry Moore]

Hi All,

Is there an advantage to the pull-pull wheel compared to just 2 hard rods, with a collar in the middle, going from a double arm on the servo to each side of the steering arm on the engine? I am building 3 tunnels from scratch a 3.5, 7.5 and 11 cc and would appreciate feedback before I get too far. I was going to use 1/4 servos for the 7.5 and 11 and a standard size hi-torque on the 3.5 but dual hard rods on all 3.

I guess if I wanted to change the tilt I would have to loosen the collars and retighten and adjust trim.

Thanks for your help!

Harry

 

[Mike Culhane]

Harry,

I'm not sure pull-pull is any better than a properly set-up rod system. My biggest reason is - I hate push-rod seals. They are too big and limit your flexibility when building a neat, compact and clean looking radio box. If you look at the picture you will see no seals to speak of - just the gold-n-cable. I leave the jacket for the steering cable extend out of the box approx. 4 inches. If you think about it, the sealing effect is no different than what we all use for the throttle cable. The trick is to spray Corrosion X on the cable and let it wick in. The Corrosion X not only lubes the cable but repels the water trying to get in. I mean zero water intrusion.

At the end of the day, it's personal preference. Mike

 

[HTV Boats]

I have used the golden rod for years and you can seal them with small fuel tube. Cut a half inch piece of small and insert it part way into a half inch piece of medium fuel line. A little super glue and slip it over the golden rod and you have a neat cable wiper. Corrosion X or grease helps too but can be hell to solder with.

Mic

 

[moparbarn]

i use the same setup as mike culhane, except i use vinyl coated stainless fishing leader wire from wally mart. (.025" od) then seal the outer sleeve/cable end with heat shrink for a wiper. light & super strong, easily adjusted. no cables broken in the 3 years i've been doing it that way. i've used both the small & the med. wheels, really can't tell any difference in steering/handling........jr z650m steering servo.

 

[Tony Newland]

Tony,

The engine is off the VS-1 right now so can't give you any specifics. The set-up from the instructions is real close. The key to make these fast is: (1) O.S. engine-break in the motor then take out head shim and throw away. (2) Get yourself a Mark Sholund 1440 prop done up for VS-1. (3) Run high nitro. I run 60%. (4) Lean on the needle until it really starts to scream. These motors like to turn up. If it won't turn up, raise the motor in small increments. This should get you into the high forty's and close to fifty. Oh by the way Mark goes by Shoboat on I.W. Drop him a PM for the prop. Good Luck!

Mike

Hi Mike, thanks

ya its still breaking in and by the time I think I got it close the water was to rough to really make a pass so I'll keep tinkering with it. We're at about 4400 ft here so our stuff is alittle down on power to begin with. I ordered up an RG shim, its .003 instead of .006, I popped the head off at the lake to see what shims they had in there and I only saw one, so I think I'll leave at least the RG one in there to seal. And I never did get it lean enough till it laid down so I know I'm alittle off on the mix too....... In due time, it'll come around

Tony

 

[Mike Culhane]

I have used the golden rod for years and you can seal them with small fuel tube. Cut a half inch piece of small and insert it part way into a half inch piece of medium fuel line. A little super glue and slip it over the golden rod and you have a neat cable wiper. Corrosion X or grease helps too but can be hell to solder with.

Mic

Hey Mic,

How you doin? Mic I'm looking for a can muffler from a K&B outboard- Do you have an extra? I'm getting my Aerotech set up for the SS 40 class. Looks like a blast!

Mike

 

[HTV Boats]

I have used the golden rod for years and you can seal them with small fuel tube. Cut a half inch piece of small and insert it part way into a half inch piece of medium fuel line. A little super glue and slip it over the golden rod and you have a neat cable wiper. Corrosion X or grease helps too but can be hell to solder with.

Mic

Hey Mic,

How you doin? Mic I'm looking for a can muffler from a K&B outboard- Do you have an extra? I'm getting my Aerotech set up for the SS 40 class. Looks like a blast!

Mike

Mike,

Sorry no extra cans in my box. Maybe we need to start a thread in the for sale section as the SS40 class is showing real interest down here. Resurects old boats and motors with a competative class. Heard a rumor Otto might even throw his hat in the ring. Tired of blowing up super high performance motors? Get with the can program. 40's also are a lot more seaworthy and finish in water a Sport 20 may not be able to race in. Sorry bout the hi-jack here.

Mic