Aeroflyte Challenger

[direwolf]

I've been inspired by this thread and I found a Aeroflyte Challenger kit in a local shop.

My plan is to transform this into a Micro RC.

This will be my first real project as my only other boat is a RTR Grey Thunder (which I still need to do a motor upgrade on, but thats another story). I'm still very new to model boats so it's all a steep learning curve for me.

I currently have none of the extra hardware to beef up this kit so any help with actual part names/numbers would be good. I saw in the other thread that andrewg recommended a Graupner 400 6v for a motor - thats a start.

Should I wait until I get all the hardware before starting construction of the hull or should I make a start now?

 

[jayt]

I'm not familiar with this boat, but I can say it is usually best to have most of the parts in hand prior to starting to build or modify a boat. Getting the parts spacingcutouts and CG right without the parts to look at and measure can be almost impossible. Sometimes it's tough having to wait - but that's my recommendation.

 

[direwolf]

I'm not familiar with this boat, but I can say it is usually best to have most of the parts in hand prior to starting to build or modify a boat. Getting the parts spacingcutouts and CG right without the parts to look at and measure can be almost impossible. Sometimes it's tough having to wait - but that's my recommendation.

I was sort of thinking that myself, but I wanted to get some advice first. Thanks

 

[direwolf]

Couldn't wait and I reckon I don't need all the other parts to build the sponsons so I went ahead

I'll leave the main hull until I get all the running gear tho

 

[David Kingston]

Ive got that kit and modified it to be more like a hydro (rather than tunnel).

It is going to be powered by a cobalt 400 motor and 30amp ESC.

The only changes that i did to the hull were mods to the sponson bottom to make it hydro like and the tub bottom was 0.8mm ply instead of the balsa. This was just a strength thing.

I plan on powering it with 7cell 1200IB's Not sure what prop but about a 30 -32mm should be in the ball park

If i can get a digital camera i would be happy to post some picture for you.

Cheers and good luck with it

David

 

[direwolf]

Some photos would be great I'm interested to see what you did sponsons.

How much stronger does the ply make the tub compared to the balsa?

Andrew from Fastelectrics is looking at some running gear for me. Once I sort that out I can move ahead with this project.

 

[Andrewg]

John

the problem with the hull is it is really a tunnel hull (with a flared bow) rather than hydro. It is very narrow and no thought was ever given to the afterplane and its effect on handling at speed - which is where a hydro is meant to operate

It needs a step in the bottom of the sponson at about 40% of lemgth from the nose and so the bottom makes an angle of 4.5 degrees to the water - you can do this by adding a little under the hull and reducing the depth of the rear sponson

The tub to the rear of the spponson needs to be cut in half to produce an outer edge at 45 degrees - an antitrip

In the end it will be ok but a much better model can be made starting with just a little thin ply balsa and cf tubes or even some foam and ply and tobes.

The final straw is that the deck is not a good design to keep water out - and unfortuneately most designs like that are good at keeping water in

The motor is a 280 or a 400 or use tiny brushless 280 and lipos - this gets the weight down and will let it air out and handle

 

[direwolf]

John

the problem with the hull is it is really a tunnel hull (with a flared bow) rather than hydro. It is very narrow and no thought was ever given to the afterplane and its effect on handling at speed - which is where a hydro is meant to operate

It needs a step in the bottom of the sponson at about 40% of lemgth from the nose and so the bottom makes an angle of 4.5 degrees to the water - you can do this by adding a little under the hull and reducing the depth of the rear sponson

The tub to the rear of the spponson needs to be cut in half to produce an outer edge at 45 degrees - an antitrip

In the end it will be ok but a much better model can be made starting with just a little thin ply balsa and cf tubes or even some foam and ply and tobes.

The final straw is that the deck is not a good design to keep water out - and unfortuneately most designs like that are good at keeping water in

The motor is a 280 or a 400 or use tiny brushless 280 and lipos - this gets the weight down and will let it air out and handle

eeekk, If I knew what all that meant I'd finish the boat off tonight :blink:

 

[David Kingston]

Mate,

stop the sponsoon building now until i get some shots of what i have done to you.

Where you are up to is not hard to modify....

I did not make this thing for speed. I have boats already that do 60mph and i didnt care what this boat speed was going to be, so long as i could put about for 5mins (or a bit less) at abot 15mph.

The tub on mine is going to be 99.9% water proof. Building it the same (but with ply bottom) then taping around where the plastic hatch goes will keep this nice and dry. Plus it is about 2inchs out of the water at the front and should not take on water there.

send me your email and i will try get some pictures to you.

I intend on making my own hardware for this thing. Brass and a bit of solder. It is not going to be a speed demon.

David

 

[direwolf]

PM sent with email

I don't want mine to be too much of a speed demon. I just want it so my sons can have a bit of fun and zip around in close.

 

[Scott_T]

John,

I built one of these about 10 - 15 years ago, and installed the Tamiya Tamtech gear into it. Tamtech was a range of 1/24 scale cars, and everything was pretty small and light.

Anyway, I didn't modify the hull at all, and it went really well, even used the stock shaft and prop. It was quite fast, had to be on your toes to drive it in a pool, would have been fun in a small lake. It handled well too, and didn't need any turn fins or anything.

But the hatch does need some help keeping the water out - just some tape around the edge should help a lot.

I tried a Dictator as well (they all had different names back then), but it didn't go nearly as well. So if it's just for fun you could build it as-is. But if you want a bit more speed, wait for David's photos.

 

[Andrewg]

[scott I am willing to bet your standards have risen since then too

 

[David Kingston]

[scott I am willing to bet your standards have risen since then too

Andrew,

nar he is still building stick boat, (riggers)

At least i changed his mind about wood grain finish

David