A few newbie 1/8 scale questions!

[bjacobsen71]

I am looking at building either a 1994 (T-3?) or 1998 (T-5) 1/8 scale Miss Bud using the RC Boat Company hull (SG118H or SG121H hull respectively) and Accutech hardware. I will be powering this at least initially with an OS 65 VR-M drum valve (I have two of these engines brand new, one earlier[??] version with the smaller con rod and non-bushed machined drum housing, and one later[??] version with a heavier rod and bronze bushed drum housing, would eventually like to get a new CMB .67, but not in the cards now, not planning on racing anytime soon either). My questions are, is one of these hulls any better than the other as far as setup and running for a newbie (with possibly racing sometime in the future), I'm kinda partial to the '94 but like them both. Also are there any tricks to setting up the OS to live (not planning on any mods other than setting squish clearance), I've heard of some rod issues (assuming this to be more prevalent with the earlier of the drum motors as the con rod ends are quite a bit less substantial the the later motor I have), and what would be a good prop to start with? I have looked at scratch building as well but think for now I'd like to use one of the glass hulls. I also have a really old disk induction 65 VR-M brand new, but that one will probably stay on the shelf! Closest club to me is in Folsom, CA and thats about 2 hours away (I'm in Reno) so thats not a great option for input. Also any recomendations on a graphics company? Thanks for any comments.

 

[Glenn Gates]

Mike McKnight here in Sacramento makes excellent graphics and is also the scale chairman in D-9. His website is thunderboatgraphics.com The O.S.motors do not seem to do well on the 50-60% nitro the CMB's thrive on. A good prop to start with at your altitude would be a Octura X455/3.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I would start out with the 91-94 hull. My reasons for this are:

1) more room inside the cockpit area for radio gear

2) the canard is semifixed with the rear half adjustable so it's easier to install and work with and the front of the hull is stiffer

3) you have the choise between the all red and red/white/gold paint schemes if you want to do a Budweiser

I would have to agree on the prop recommendation but will add an X457 or X457/3 as well. It really depends on what your motor will handle as well as how the boat works with the prop. If the boat is dragging the transom, you might consider going to a 14 series prop for more lift

 

[Don Ferrette]

I would start out with the 91-94 hull. My reasons for this are:

1) more room inside the cockpit area for radio gear

2) the canard is semifixed with the rear half adjustable so it's easier to install and work with and the front of the hull is stiffer

3) you have the choise between the all red and red/white/gold paint schemes if you want to do a Budweiser

I would have to agree on the prop recommendation but will add an X457 or X457/3 as well. It really depends on what your motor will handle as well as how the boat works with the prop. If the boat is dragging the transom, you might consider going to a 14 series prop for more lift

I disagree-1) There is actually more usable room inside the cockpit of the 98 boat (SG121H) because it's wider especially if you're stuffing 3 servos in there.

2) The canards flaps have to be fabricated on the 94 boat (SG118H) but Steve offers a nice wing mounting kit for the full width SG121H canard making it way easier to install. There is absolutely no difference in stiffness between the two in the front because of the carbon rod Steve uses between the sponsons.

3) There's far more paint scheme options for the SG121H hull than the SG118H but if going with Bud the all red paint is way easier to do and far more forgiving to touch up. For a first time scale simple paint scheme is the better option in my opinion.

4) The X457 will be a bit too much for the OS65 as it lacks the same torque of the greenhead, it will be alot happier on a X455/3 and a little negative angle in the strut can aid in giving lift if needed. As Glenn said stay under 50% nitro and at least 18% oil for the OS.

The RC Boat Company hulls are well made and either one will perform, just a matter of picking one. Give Steve a call, he's a super nice guy and will get you going down the right path. B)

 

[bjacobsen71]

Thanks for the input, will try and get in touch with mike and see what path I want to persue. I do see a green head in my future for this, just gotta start with the os for now. Will the os handle 50% at my altitude or should I just run 40%, I'm mixing my own fuel, running 50% in my little JAE's with OS .18TZ's but no biggie to mix 40% for the scale. As always all input is appreciated.

 

[Bob Morton]

Brett,

OS 65. Pipe@12", flow @ 40, Start with a X452/3, best X455/3. Also P245. OS has the best carb a 9B very easy to tune and gets

Great mileage on a tank. With a P245 I get four minutes a run (^¿^) . I ran an OS for twenty years with no problems till at a race a few weeks ago it did break. If I were you I would run the OS motor. I ran 25 % nitro with 20% oil. I repaired the engine and it runs just

Fine.

Nails

 

[Glenn Gates]

30% ODonnels boat fuel will work well- pleanty of oil content. The weak link in the O.S. motors seems to be the con rod and you can still buy those( I think).. Sometimes when the rod goes it will also break the piston skirt or bend the bottom of the liner- and those are no longer availiable. I would post a ad in the for sale forum WTB Brad Christe Titan rod(titanium). You might get lucky.

 

[bjacobsen71]

Where is the best place to look for documentation on the Miss Bud, found a few sites on the later (post '98) but have found few pictures of the '94, and how do you tell the difference between hulls when they ran multiple hulls in the same year (T-2/T-3 in '94 and T-3,5,& 6 in the later years.)? Thanks again.

 

[Ken Smith]

If you go to RC Boat Company's page on the SG118H there are pics of all the boats the hull will make. They include about 5 pics of the Bud. Harry Gatjens is also a great resource for all things Miss Bud. Also check with Newton Marine. David Newton can get you hooked up with some great hydro pics. You can PM both guys on Intlwaters. Thx

http://www.rcboatcom...com/SG118H.html

http://newtonmarine.com/

http://www.rcboatcom...r_Hull_8701.jpg

 

[hgatjens]

The R/C Boat Company hull better makes the T-2 then the T-3. The canard on the T-3 is deeper than on the T-2. Also the ends of the canoes on the T-2 have no indentation as the T-3 had. The modifications are minor, but it does require modifications to make the T-3. I have made both models from that particular hull so either choice can be done successfully.

I prefer the all red paint job versus the red gold and white paint job. The problem with the red paint job is that the only time the T-2 ran with the all red paint job was in San Diego, 1994 and then it had the salt water scoop on it. I you don't want to use the salt water scoop you either make the modifications to make the T-3 or you use the red white and gold paint job.

I have all the pictures, paint codes and history on these boats. I also have decal makers that I would highly recommend for the boat. if you want more details send me an e-mail.

 

[bjacobsen71]

Harry, thanks for the reply, pm sent.

 

[Mike McKnight]

Hi Brett sorry I didn't see this thread earlier. I'm kinda on vacation right now. Just email me or call me and I'll help ya with whatever I can. I have pics and documentation but probably not near as much as Harry does. He's a great resource on the Bud boats. If you need help with layout and fabrication of parts or the hulls I can help with that. I'm pretty familiar with RC Boat Co hulls. I used to have a 118 back when Bill Fritz owned those molds and there are several of them in district in various configurations. One was rebuilt into an Elam another a LLumar. No Buds though at the moment. When you get to the graphics stage I've got sets for all the Bud boats of that era. As far as OS motors I can't help you there. I've been a Picco and CMB guy since I've been in scale boating. There are others in the district I can point you to that could help with that unless you plan to go CMB. I'll be back next week. My email is [email protected]

 

[bjacobsen71]

Mike I do plan on going CMB, but for now I will probably be using the OS, this project will take some time to do it right i'm sure so I may even have the CMB before the boat hits the water, I'll probably be making my final decesion on which hull and ordering it this week, and I really do like the '94 T-3's looks so unless there is a good reason (runs better/faster or significantly easier to set up) to do the T-5/6 that is the way i'm leaning. Thanks.

 

[bjacobsen71]

Well, I pulled the pin, doing the '94 T-3. Have ordered the hull from Steve, hopefully will have it in another 2-3 weeks, got the hardware from Accu-Tech, and was able to buy a new CMB .67 also. Having a bit of difficulty finding good detail pictures though, especially of the transom hardware and "swim step" (found some pretty good ones on David Newtons site but it was of the '93 T-3, and dont know what may have changed in '94 on the same hull. Also his pictures of the '94 T-3 only show the early (believe pre-season) boat that had no turbine tube, I dont believe it ran any races in '94 in that configuration, as all the race videos I have been able to pull up show the scarfed mid length tube??? Any help with pictures in these areas, as well as the escape hatch and cockpit handle/emergency switch areas would be appreciated, Thanks!

 

[Ken Smith]

Harry Gatjens' bat phone has been ringing a lot this week Brett, Harry is the Bud resource. He should be able to get you hooked up with pics, details, etc for any Bud. Cheers.

 

[bjacobsen71]

Thanks, have gotten some info from Harry already, lotsa people been pickin his brain lately and didnt want to bug him to much!