.12 ENGINE QUESTION

[wswatzell]

I'm not sure how many know of the problem I have been having dropping my flex shaft out of my HH.12 rigger.

Quick run down, then the question. I have an OS .12 TR/PT. The flex hex I have on it came with the engine from Hammer in Japan. The flex hex is for a 4mm (.157 cables) my cable in my HH.12 is .130 I was able to tighten it down or so I thought. :angry: I checked the thread size on the crank, & it is 1/4-28 thread. Which come to find out is the stock piloted crank that comes with the TR/PT. On mine, the piloted end is cut back to the thread, so the threading is very short. I can't find a flex to work, because I need a pilot end flex hex to fit 1/4-28 thread, & a .130 cable.

I found that there are 3 versions of the crank. one has a long 5mm threaded end, one has a short 5mm thread which are both stock for the TR (non turbo head), & the one that I have, 5mm pilot shaft, & 1/4-28 thread.

Question. Other than the threaded end, is there any difference in the cranks? Will the long threaded end crank work in the TR/PT version of the engine?

 

[Watercadet]

Ahh I don't think that there is any diff between the TR crank and the TR/P crank internaly. Did you check with Gary P.? He might have the flex hex that you need. There might be a little "turboing" on the "p" crank but you can modify the threaded shaft one.

Adam

 

[Saugling]

There is no difference between the TR crank and the TR/P crank internaly

 

[wswatzell]

Did you check with Gary P.? He might have the flex hex that you need.

I did check with Gary P, the only one that he could get a hold of doesn't have a pilot end on the flex hex, & the thread on my crank doesn't stick out far out enough so I can't even get it started.

There is no difference between the TR crank and the TR/P crank internaly 

Thanks, I will just get a new crank, & then a flex hex for m5 thread/.130 cable. That will be the easiest way to solve the situation.

 

[nitrotoys]

Wade, Put a collet the size of your cable between your stuffing tube and engine, that way if it does ever come loose you will not LOOSE Your shaft and prop.

very CHEEP way of keeping that cable in the boat.

Tom

 

[wswatzell]

Tom, that is an excelent idea. Don T sugested a piece of fuel tubing as well, I will defently do that, I hate loosing them, now that I have lost not only mine, but also Ron's

 

[TimD]

What about sleeving the end of the shaft where it goes into the collet?

 

[Don Templeton]

Not a bad idea Tim! I was thinking about that myself. But even if you could get a 1/64" wall thickness brass tube to exactly fit the .130 cable you would end up with a .161 cable end. However, that probably would work because I line up the stuffing tube through the firewall with a 3/16 (.1675) solid shaft in a .150 hex flex or flex hex whatever it's called. Anyway, see how a 3/16 OD brass tube fits over the .130 shaft. (Wait, never mind. You couldn't get the shaft through the stuffing tube if you did that.) :wacko: It's getting late! Get the threaded crank.

By,

Don :blink:

 

[rcducky]

The crank that you would need is the one that has the longer threaded 5mm shaft. The shorter shaft 5mmm is used for motors that are run in an off road car with a clutch like the RC10 GT. The crank that you currently have is the one used for on-road type cars. Octura sells flex collets for both .130 and .150 cables. I believe the part numbers are OCFH5MM13 (for .130 cable) and OCFH5MM15 (for the .150 cable).

 

[wswatzell]

Thanks rcducky, I wasn't sure what the different styles were for,I have never been into rc cars. I am planning on getting the one with the longer m5 thread, & a new flex hex to fit.

 

[Ron Olson]

Check with Gary or whoever you order from on the flex hex coupler. It seems that Octura made (or makes) 2 different lengths of them. I have both. The shorter one is a better fit in the HH.12 .

 

[wswatzell]

Cool thanks Ron. I got the part # for the short one from Don T. He has that one in his "Shark Hunter" .12 rigger HE HE, I remebered the name he gave it

 

[Don Templeton]

"Shark hunter" I'd forgotten about that. I think that was just for Hammers benifit. For now I'll just keep the name Riptide.

I'm not sure how your flywheel will fit on the 5mm threaded shaft. I use the OS 1D flywheel (13.49) and OS drive washer # 21458000 (3.59) to keep the flywheel from slipping. I don't think your TR-PT came with a drive washer.

Did you take a look at the new OS 12TR(P)-TR Spec engine at Tower. I can't find any information about it yet but it sure looks cool. About 20 more dollars than your P-T.

Don

 

[Don Templeton]

"Shark hunter" I'd forgotten about that. I think that was just for Hammers benifit. For now I'll just keep the name Riptide.

I'm not sure how your flywheel will fit on the 5mm threaded shaft. I use the OS 1D flywheel (13.49) and OS drive washer # 21458000 (3.59) to keep the flywheel from slipping. I don't think your TR-PT came with a drive washer.

Did you take a look at the new OS 12TR(P)-TR Spec engine at Tower. I can't find any information about it yet but it sure looks cool. About 20 more dollars than your P-T.

Don

How in the world did I reply twice? :wacko:

 

[wswatzell]

I figured I would have to get a new fly wheel as well, but i didn't about a drive washer. Thanks for the part #'s, that will make it easier to find the one I need.

I haven't seen anything about that engine, I’ll have to take a peek at Towers.