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and so yo want advice how to fix? If you can provide more info, what engine, what carb, what boat?

before running would check for any blemish, sharp edge etc. Not knowing who did the mods, might be needed to be sure and check for any 'dirt'

Ideal would be if you have the tank at the CG... Then it doesn't matter if you are full or empty.

Try ready to win models in Italy

I prefer 4 or 5 cell LiFePo4: they are not as burn dangerous as the LiPo cells, that you have to treat very carfull when charging.

400 is plenty, I use around 150. How come you want to use 400? That is some serious servo...

I'm not saying the collet is no good: I just find the square drive easier, but then we use a different cable system than you us guys. Stub is 8 mm, not 1/4 inch as you guys use. As for the trust bearing: I used peek for many years but no use the bearings.. Just oil after each run.. 6.54US $ 10%...

I use them on my 27 and 30 cc boat: has little balls that run in steel shells. Us square end at the engine output side so that there is no wind-up of the cable.

The CMB that had seizure issues was a 35 cc engine without ring, not an 27 engine. (around 12 years ago) The PUM230 ( 2 port engine) used 2 piston rings

I would either shorten the screws, or swap them for shorter ones: they are way too long.

Just use the right torque to fasten the bolts and they will not come loose.

This is a german type pipe. You see 2 nipples for hooking up water cooling: either one can be used for inlet and the the other for outlet. What it does it cools the converging side of the pipe. Not sure if you need that, you can always try to see if it functions without the cooling hooked up and...

Check you post on Jim's..

It depends how well prepped you come and how easy things are to fix when something breaks. I try to have everything interchangeble, so that whenever something breaks ( and that is usually the case), I can fix it within minutes, without having to carry a trailer full of spares. It helps to work...

Steve, are these the older style QD's or the new Pioneer Rex ones? Let me email you

http://www.tjmodels.com.cn/ For Naviga ( there are 2 major organisations Naviga and IMBRA) they are current worldchampions in the FSR-O 27 and FSR-O35 class with the nemo hulls. FSR-V is the class where you have to have submerged propellor and they drive M-course, not oval.

I read you volunteer to set-up the virtual museum, actively will promote it, support people who want to upload stuff and also write about all you know: cool idea!

I don't think that is a very bad mess.. You can still see tabletop surface!

The cooling cap doesn't look stock to me, or is that part of the fitting process, not the final engine?

Mamco corporation (mamcomotors.com)sell the complete engines: they might be able to offer an all in one solution. I notice that my start engines start to wobble and then the anchor or stator wires short for some reason.