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Also posted this on Jim's but little response so searching further. As I'm in the finishing stages of the twin rigger build it is now time to think on some practical aspects. One of them is how to hook up the engines to ensure they throttle synchronised. I have seen many set-up using a sort of...

Also made an effort for tanks. Top will be CF, the bottom just glass. This as laminating without vacuum is quite hard on thick carbon weaves and the cloth is expensive. So I save efforts and $$ on other, visible, things. Anyhow here are the pics.

Some progress update: mold for the turn fin is ready and have laminated a curved sheet. Turns out super stiff, but required quite some layers: 2 300 grams twill, 6 300 grans bi-directional, for a total thickness of 2.5 mm. The weight is even more amazining: have an inox one that weighs 162 gram...

I also made amold like that: my experience though is that the steel epoxy when set can not take a lot of hammering and will break: it is better to use an anvil block and balls to shape the blade and use the cast as a guide to see if you have the same shape. Otherwise a perfect way to replicate...

Have you tried Venom direct? [email protected] or 800.705.0620

I have 2 PPW SS 6719 props in mint condition I'd like to part with. Ideal for backlash-whiplash and some riggers. Doals have the orginal velvet like pouched they were supplied in. 105 $ each plus shipping. As I'm in Europe might not be very interesting for North-American members, but the good...

I would like to gift an assortment of props for either |FE or smaller displacement engine: Octura 1662-2 Octura V957-3 Octura 1855-2 And an unknow right turn 3 blad prop. Taker to pay postage from Netherlands.

As I'm waiting for building supplies to be delivered can focus on some "nice to have" items: a Carbon fiber turnfin and also a carbon fiber set of tanks. Initially I intende to use just IV bags as fuel tank, but as the fiber reinforcement added considerable weight, I want to add some extra...

Great build bubba.. Yes I felt the same that the tub really could benefit from some strengthening. Out of curiousity what props are you running? My single engine is doing 2914-2 or octura 2170 easy, so I fear I must go much larger on a twin..

I have been quiet for a while on this, but have been steadily working on it. Most (invisible) work was on the engines as I had to rework a lot: turn down the cases to accomodate full circle cranks, mill the ignition plates, take apart and clean 5 engines (yeah if you don't sell stuff it just...

https://www.intlwaters.com/threads/backlash-build.81823/

Chinewalk is inherent to any flat bottom V-hull. Because the underside is flat it will trap a lot of air and the boat becomes unstable, very susceptible to any disturbance. What come to mind did you check the correct CG? Experiment: may be moving the battery pack around, of just add weigh to the...

The TFL works wel on 4 S: I had 2 dynatrons with the speedmaster handle , and it worked well, it's just on the first dynatron the bearings and bristtle gave in an dthe second had the wires short.. So |TFL for me: the trick is not to overpower (no more then 4s)

Easy way to measure: lay a piece of thin rope along the centerline from exhaust flange to widest part of the pipe as Mike explained, and then measure the lenght of this rope with a ruler.

Something like this High Quality CNC Alloy Engine Mount for 26CC Zenoah Marine Engine Boat #1321 | eBay

I think boat runs quick, but loose and unstable. With wind-waves-other boats it might not do a lot of laps. Have you tried already ABC 2714-3 or 2614-3 chopper? These might be your ticket for a good ride..

No a straight shaft is not better.. Yes it has less friction then a flex shaft, but the trust would be wrong directed and you lose any small efficiency benefit big times.

6S 2000kv is about 25 volts fully charged @2000 rpm= 50 k rpm. If that will not fry the engine, also running half throttle, as the others said, is a major stressing thing on the regulator. 4S and 2000kv should be plenty, and I would not run a lot of half or semi throttle. Unless you are after...

The warmer the epoxy is, the easier it will be removed, so if you have to scrape it iff, try to warm it.. I think you did the good think going the extra effort removing the 'bad' mixed epoxy.

No you can't, better scrape it off, so you are sure it is off. \BEcause if you have good epoxy and mix it with bad epoxy, the mixture is still wrong and it will not reach the deeper part of it. So give it a big sign and scrape... As a side note: I prefer the 24 hr epoxy: Though ittakes a while...