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I'm sorry that I didn't reply sooner. The roughness in the paint at the keel was the first thing I noticed (looked like nitro ate up the paint, lol). Just prepping the hull should have helped a bunch. There was a definite rocker front to rear, but I don't recall how flat the old youngbloods...

Sounds like it is a surface drive hull. I'd look for rocker. Any rocker will make it handle squirrely in the straight line and in the corners.

Check the bottom for hooks and rockers. Both lengthwise and across the hull. Hooks and rockers can happen during storage if the hull has weight on it or is subjected to heat. The thread I referred to was about ill handling of the Youngblood hulls in turns. The chine on the Youngblood is...

Read the thread on Bernoulli. Hint: the problem is not at the rear of the hull. See post below. http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showtopic=17548&p=165562

Shields do not seal the motor, they have a small gap at the ID. Seals can help, but if you need them, the motor needs to be fixed.

Depending on the button volume and nitro % of the fuel, you can run less clearance. The lower the clearance the higher the MSV. I personally run about 0.010~0.012" on the 67 and 80 motors. But if it is a small volume bowl, it will not handle anything over 25~30% nitro. I have many different...

Okay, thanks. The $5 shipping was for domestic USA. I will charge only what the USPS does for shipping to Australia.

The red head is the Pro. I have them in stock. Motor bearings are $44. Do you also need PTO? The PTO are $33/pair. Shipping for all is $5.

there are several different types of motors: Pro, Semi pro, early model.The Pro motors had had square heads and anodized flywheels. and there were two different size crankshafts on the early model. Can you post a picture?

I have them in stock. Which version of the 7.5 do you have? Jon

Interested. Where are you located? Also, Is it torsion axel or leaf spring? Jon

I have a complete prepped OPS67 with drum rotor, billet bearing housing, and titanium Keeley rod if you are interested. Asking $250 shipped. PM for details. Jon

I would start it up and run till warm with straight Alky fuel with 20% oil (this flushes out any residual nitro/nitric acid). And then flush heavily with CorrosionX, wrap with a lint free shop rag, and place in a ziploc storage bag, store in a temperature controlled environment. Be sure to flush...

Mike, I bought 5 gal from Norris many years ago. It is now unobtanium.......wonder what I'm going to do once it is gone??!!?? Perhaps MA731

I use different cylinders based on qty. 1000ml for the nitro and smaller for the oil/alky. I use a mix of Cool Blue and LB625 for oil. 9% oil on the 65% fuel, 12% oil on the 50%. Based on the previous thread, I may add a skosh of BeNol. But I've never had any engine failures.......One thing to...

I think that you'll see that the dry ice on the outside of the air box, not the inside.....The CO2 gas does not mix with the incoming air charge in this application. Yes, it is a poor man's intercooler.

Hey Paul, I just saw your thread. I have many of the McMaster fittings on hand. Please PM me if you still need help. I'd be glad to help in any way I can.

Dry ice is frozen CO2. As it evaporates it sublimes to carbon dioxide gas, displacing oxygen. Don't ever store dry ice in a walk in cooler. People have suffocated and died that way.

Yes, I checked last week 'cause it appeared from the thread postings that there might be one left, but Frank advised that they are all gone. I have one early Orlic (no split), and one Zoom 21 to work with.

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