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noted, but I needed to knock something up quickly so I can do some testing tomorrow morning. Will race it too if all works out, hoping there is enough coverage of the carby. But if it doesn't work, I can always do up another :) And if it does work, I can clean this one up and use it as a plug...

Building a cowling for mine... balsa/ply & will glass/epoxy over.

new flywheel is on it's way... excellent service from Gizmo...

Jim... I have sent an email to Gizmo... I am hoping they will come good and replace this flywheel with one that is going to work. The engine has had a total of about 3 minutes running on it since brand new. I honestly don't think I can slot the primary coil enough to get it back. But...

thanks for the pics Ron...

Jim, Yep, I have done that and the keyway looks off to me (about 8 degrees). Definately would be firing earlier in the cycle than with the original flywheel. The worst part is that it's a brand new flywheel purchased from Gizmo in the US, so any fix is gunna cost me more $$ :( Pic #2 was done...

I have my JAE rigger done & in the testing phase over here in Australia. But having issues with my modded RCMK RZ254. Hard to start after I destroyed the original flywheel when the starter nut stripped out and shredded the starter assembly. Replacement parts fitted, but now it's a pain to start...

I had a 4S 5000 pack let go deep under water (about 20 foot down). It was not in a dry box, so the water prevented burning, however the vigorous eruption caused lots and lots of white smoke bubbles! Eventually recovered the boat (a timber hydro) and short of smelling to high heaven all was good...

the ones I use: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/u...,_5.5~23v_Input They are hextronic - but made by ASSAN. And the ones with a low voltage alarm: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/u...ow_Voltage_horn

Ok, where do we start: 1. I use the ASSAN voltage regs, but others use the CC version too. You can also get voltage regs that have a low voltage audio alarm. See www.hobbycity.com 2. 2S 1000 packs are great (use em in an X-mono - no probs). 3. Charge time - typically lipo is charged at 1C (1...

careful with the torch.. you can affect the silicone insulation. I still think you will have the best success with a proper soldering iron. HeatShrink is used to over both insulation and connector.

pretty sure that it isn't the most suitable for the task. You need the mass of the copper tip to retain the heat for quick thermal transfer. Better off with something like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Weller-Sp80L-Solde...V/dp/B0009VX23C

the secret is to use a large enough soldering iron (80W+) that lets you get the heat quickly to the joint. That way the heat is limited to a smaller area, stopping the solder wicking back.

thanks... Any intention of selling these hulls?

looking good there Randy.... so it's a 4S boat.. Any dimensions available?

smooth can (ie no cooling fins)

that's a great looking setup mate... Hope it runs as good as it looks.

Preston, I actually believe in having more rudder throw than that required for the course turn radius... mainly for emergency situations where you may have to steer around a boat that dumps in front of you. My dad sets up his boats the way you suggested, but I find them a little doughy to drive...

watch those battery temps Peter..... B) B)

Preston.... is that just on the 33" boat? I have the 90/100 boat and have heaps of rudder on that, no hooking issues there (I reckon this is the sweetest handling seaducer made). I will also try dialing the rudder back, after I have fitted the higher torque servo.