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Love that hull. I have a couple of them. The 27” version is much more stable than the little 22.5” hull. Both have lots of speed for a little bit of power. Garry

Dave and Debbie, I am so sorry to hear of your (our) loss. The world is not the same place without Roger. Garry

Brian, that would be an interesting situation. If the prop was originally an X430R, and you could not add material, should prop modifications be allowed? Of course, there may be some latitude on “balancing and sharpening”. Just thinking about how the pot could get stirred. This is Jim’s game...

LEFT turns, the way hydros are suppose to go. This sounds like the way to get me out of the house next year. Count me in. I will get with Bill, Brian, Luke, and Dave. We may get an Oregon contingent going. Now all they have to do is get I-5 open…. Garry

Whether it is turning to the left or right. This size hull and a conservative power system like Jim has developed is a sweet combination, both in classic round-nose or pickle-fork. Doing the right-hand prop and right turn, which limits everyone to an X-430R is the magic in this class. Everyone...

Krylon Crystal Clear is great on electric boats. Easy to apply, enconomical, looks very good and tasts great. Garry

This is quite true. Smaller hulls can get away with the lighter wood. On my 12th scale hulls now-days I still use 3/32 balsa throughout but, the outside sheeting is laminated with 1/64" birch ply "wing-skin". Best of both worlds. The Oberto would benifit from this also. Garry

I use 3/32” balsa on all my little 1/16th scale boats. Top, sides and bottom. The sponson runners are 1/32” over the balsa. But that’s it. Krylon sanding sealer, then Krylon top coat. Has held up for years. Garry

I do drive a gas-electric hybrid and race electric models. Believe me, both are great. Garry

Interesting thing about drawing up plans for scale models. We are not the original designers. I have used Roger’s plans for the 69 Karelsen round-nose hull (#101). This is the ultimate in round nose designs. On my plans I credit Ed Karelsen with the original design and Roger Newton for the...

I love Rogers plans. They are presented well and give you exactly what you need to cut parts to build a great masterpiece. Many people will find that things don’t fall together perfectly after cutting the parts. Welcome to the world. Many of these hulls are not designed symmetrically. Hand...

My philosophy on sport vs. scale vs. sport-scale is (specially in 16th): I make a boat as scale as I can. It can be entered in any class that the dimensions, cell count and motor type allow. They wouldn’t kick you out of sport hydro for being too scale. A point was made on the other thread –...

This is crazy, do the obvious. Adopt the exact E-RCU 1/10th scale rules, nation-wide, and go with a proven winner. This class is perfect. It is not the huge investment of 8th scale with unlimited motors running on more than 30 cells. The hulls are big enough to get everyone’s attention and...

A scale unlimited can be a small boat. Here is my 1/16th scale Karelson 69 U-7. On 6 cells is weighs 2.25 pounds. We are getting more interest in N1 Sport Scale – Lots of fun. Garry

The batteries we now use actually “come on” as they warm up. Many racers hit them with a blow drier, or put them on the charger to warm them up before a race. The other method is to do a hot mill lap to get them up to racing temp. Garry

The technique I use is to walk up to the side of the pond, put the transmitter on the ground, kneel down, reach out and dip the front of the hull in the water. Then I gently push it out while keeping the prop and rudder away from the bank. I pick up the transmitter, stand up, tickle the...

The vinyl stays put, but we’ve seen water-slide decals come up from under Krylon Clear-coat. With the vinyl, I think it helps to wet sand to clean and “tooth” the surface for good adhesion. Garry

I like to wet sand the vinyl after the graphics have been applied. This feathers the edges so when I put the clear on, there is less of a ridge. Sometimes I sand the clear and shoot another coat. This will take out all the vinyl bump and leave a very nice surface that is smooth to the touch too...

Your right !!! Wrong boat.. The subject of this thread is the 28” pickle-fork Atlas Van Lines type hull. That’s the other set of plans I drew up for RCBM. This has been scaled upfrom 22X11 to 24X12, 26X13 and 28”X14”. RumRunnerHobbies.com is currently offering the 26” X 13” hull in electric...

That's from the 1/16th round nose plans I drew up for RC Boat Modeler magazine a few years ago. It is 23.5" X 9.5" and 2-1/4 pounds RTR. It is a blast on 6-cells and a 5200KV brushless motor. Love those old classic round-nose hulls. Garry