Paint lifting

Looking for some help, as usual.
I am in the process of painting a 46" twin craft and have ran into a problem. I sanded the boat down with 240, blew the boat off with compressed air, wiped the boat down with acetone then used rustoleum primer and put 2 coats on. After 48 hours ish, I sanded the primer with 240 and blew the boat of with compressed air and the wiped the boat down with paper towels and water. I then sprayed my first coat (light) of rustoleum paint. Waited about 5 minutes then started the second coat. On the second coat I noticed that the paint was lifting. What am I doing wrong? I had this happen on my first boat as well which I stripped it down and took it to a body shop to paint for me. That cost $700.00. I can't afford that. Let me know your thoughts and suggestions please.
Thanks
Greg.

I've used a lot of rustoleum products on my boats. I've had several issues with their primer. If you can use their regular "Rustproof Paint" (not the 2x stuff) just put it on without primer. If this is a nitro boat,you'll have to clear over it. That presents its own challenges. If it's for FE, you're good to go. If you have to use 2k over it, wait a couple weeks then apply very light clear coats waiting 30 to 45 mins between coats. This works for me. If you can find a color in their high temp engine colors they are a lot more forging to 2k paints.

I don't normally do "rattle can" paint jobs.
But I have heard of having to wait weeks between coats for it to work properly.
So I can't say what works & what doesn't.
Your paint job is only as good as you base (your first coat)
I always start with a good epoxy primer. I always wipe/clean between coats with a prep solvent made for painting your particular paint.
Have a look at TCP Global and Tropical Glitz.
They have automotive quality paints loaded into spray cans and can provide you the correct clear to cover/seal it properly.
Both places have systems that all work together.

Mike Starrett said:

I've used a lot of rustoleum products on my boats. I've had several issues with their primer. If you can use their regular "Rustproof Paint" (not the 2x stuff) just put it on without primer. If this is a nitro boat,you'll have to clear over it. That presents its own challenges. If it's for FE, you're good to go. If you have to use 2k over it, wait a couple weeks then apply very light clear coats waiting 30 to 45 mins between coats. This works for me. If you can find a color in their high temp engine colors they are a lot more forging to 2k paints.

Click to expand...

Thanks Mike, I'll try that option...after I strip the boat.

FloridaScaleBoater said:

I don't normally do "rattle can" paint jobs.
But I have heard of having to wait weeks between coats for it to work properly.
So I can't say what works & what doesn't.
Your paint job is only as good as you base (your first coat)
I always start with a good epoxy primer. I always wipe/clean between coats with a prep solvent made for painting your particular paint.
Have a look at TCP Global and Tropical Glitz.
They have automotive quality paints loaded into spray cans and can provide you the correct clear to cover/seal it properly.
Both places have systems that all work together.

Click to expand...

Thanks Florida, I'll look into those options as well.

Mike Starrett said:

I've used a lot of rustoleum products on my boats. I've had several issues with their primer. If you can use their regular "Rustproof Paint" (not the 2x stuff) just put it on without primer. If this is a nitro boat,you'll have to clear over it. That presents its own challenges. If it's for FE, you're good to go. If you have to use 2k over it, wait a couple weeks then apply very light clear coats waiting 30 to 45 mins between coats. This works for me. If you can find a color in their high temp engine colors they are a lot more forging to 2k paints.

Click to expand...

Yes it is a nitro boat. Once I have it stripped how should I prep the boat? Scuff it with 240 or should I follow it up with 400? Then wipe it down with acetone then apply the paint? I'm looking for all the help I can get...and as cheap as I can go as well.

Greg Ruggles said:

Yes it is a nitro boat. Once I have it stripped how should I prep the boat? Scuff it with 240 or should I follow it up with 400? Then wipe it down with acetone then apply the paint? I'm looking for all the help I can get...and as cheap as I can go as well.

Click to expand...

240, you will see the sanding scratches. 400 will be good.
Acetone is not your best option, it evaporates too fast to clean.
O'Reilly auto parts should have a prep solve.
###do not wipe your Rustoleum or Krylon paint with it though ####

FloridaScaleBoater said:

240, you will see the sanding scratches. 400 will be good.
Acetone is not your best option, it evaporates too fast to clean.
O'Reilly auto parts should have a prep solve.
###do not wipe your Rustoleum or Krylon paint with it though ####

Click to expand...

Yes I know that acetone will eat up the paint. I am just talking about wiping down with the initial sanding. It's only because I have a pint of it. I'll look for some prep solvent and use that. I was also thinking of using 3812S, I've used that before but that was on metal. Some people I've talked to said I didn't wait long enough between first and second coat and that the solvent from the first coat didn't have time to evaporate which is what caused the paint on the second coat to lift. Oh well, we'll see what happens in the next few days. Thanks again for your response.
Greg

For years, I did not have a compressor so I got one of those tire inflator cans. It was about 5 gallons and I filled it at the gas station across the street. It would power an airbrush long enough to get a coat of paint on and clean the gun. Dump the rustoleum and get Good 2 part paint. Even if cleared, non fuel proof paint will lift under 2k clear if the clear gets a scratch through it. Klass coat is readily available and easy to use.

Best advice i can give you is talk with Rick (Floridascaleboater) he has an wealth of knowledge about painting these boats.

I have had issues using acetone or similar solvents without waiting long enough for the solvents to evaporate from the gelcoat. I stopped using solvents and started using water based prep cleaners specifically for painting. Then wait long enough to ensure the prepped surface is dry as possible before painting regardless of the type of paint.

Acetone evaporating quickly is part of the reason it works well. It will remove ALL oils from the surface, and evaporates quickly and completely. You don't have to worry about any "leftovers". Just wipe a few times until the rag comes back clean, and you know the surface is clean.

When using rattle can primer I use the automotive sanding primer have used several differant brands had zero issues but I don’t wipe it off with any kind of solvent just soap and water followed by a tach cloth.I sand it with 220 until I get the spot putty done then on last coat I do 400 and 600 wet sand paper.Always let the primer dry overnite.I usually paint clear on the wood boats and ureathane paint out of a spray gun.Heres my last paint jobs was lucky had 50 degree weather in first part of February here in Illinois

Okay, today I spent my lunch time talking with the Rust-oleum's paint tech and here is what he told me. He said that the Rust-oleum products are designed to work together (Primer 2X and paint 2X). He said that most likely the reason why I had the paint lifting issue is that I didn't wait long enough between coats and that the solvents from the first coat (not being fully evaporated) caused the paint to lift on the second coat. This is what he told me to do, which I think is rather odd seeing they do not mention this on their products. Below are the steps he said I should take.
1: Shoot a layer of Primer on the boat. Wait 3-5 minutes then shoot the First Coat of paint on the boat. These two coats,1 primer and 1 Paint, needs to happen in the first hour. The primer and paint will bond together and there is no need to sand after the first coat of Primer.
2: Wait 48 hours to let all the solvents fully cure.
3: After 48 hours, sand with 400 grit followed by a 600 grit wet sand. Wipe down with soap and water.
4: Wait an additional 24 hours, to let any solvents that may be opened to the atmosphere, to fully cure.
5: Apply the second coat of paint and wait 5-7 days for the paint to fully Cure (although I am going to wait 3 weeks).
6: Apply the clear coat.

Seems like a lot of time. I told him that I plan on using the Spraymax 2K Clear coat. He said that he wasn't familiar with that product and wasn't sure how that would interact with their products. I told him that a lot of people have done it on their boats without any issues. I mentioned to him that this information would be good to know and they should, at least, mention it somewhere on the label to go to their site for more painting information. He said that he would mention it to the higher ups...RIGHT!
He then offered me two cans of 2X Primer and two cans of 2X paint for my troubles. I told him no thanks. Not to bright on my part, oh well.

So with all the time it is going to take to paint this boat I should have it ready just before the lakes freeze again this year.

Greg