1994 Hydrofest Smokin' Joe's ML Boatworks build

Hello,

I am embarking on my first build, this will be my first hydro build, and first boat build overall. For the build, I have chosen the ML Boatworks 158 extreme kit to build the 1994 Hydrofest Smokin' Joe's U-10. From what I understand, this is one of the boats that has had a lot of variance in the painting and design race to race, and getting it accurate to that exact race may be difficult.

I have placed orders for the Cowlings and Wings from RC Boat Company, as well as the plans from Newton Marine. I have a jig built out to match the width of the kit from ML, and have started to work on getting everything sanded smooth and mating properly. I intend to update this thread as the build progresses. Any advice from those that have built this hydro in the past would be greatly appreciated! Taking a look at the parts laid out, it looks like the Cowling area will be a lot of work to get correct, and I do not see any information on how to do the winglets on the rear transom, but I have hope that these will be a little clearer once I get the Newton plans.

Thank you to all of you that have made build logs in the past, as reading through them has been extremely helpful in getting my head wrapped around this build!

Thank you,
Jake Zella

Wax paper is your friend. I have glued a few boats to jigs. Not fun getting it off.

I also have built the the front of the jig so it tapers up. Usually cut in 3 sections. Center cowl and either side. I also use some #4 screws to hold down the bottom sheeting.
Mike

Mike Hughes said:

Wax paper is your friend. I have glued a few boats to jigs. Not fun getting it off.

I also have built the the front of the jig so it tapers up. Usually cut in 3 sections. Center cowl and either side. I also use some #4 screws to hold down the bottom sheeting.
Mike

Click to expand...

For the gluing the winglet on. If you glue a block of wood to the inside of where the skin will be glued on, then shape it so the skin can cover it. After the skin is glued on you can make a winglet out of wood with a tenon made into the winglet. Then draw a rectangle on the outside of the skin where you want the winglet to go like a mortise. Drill several holes on the inside of the rectangle and take a wood chisel to clean the inside up so the tenon on the winglet is snug. Then you can glue the winglet into the mortise. Hear is the link for how to cover the boat with fiberglass. Fiberglassing tutorial with Greg Hahn model aviation magazine YouTube. After I cover the boat with the fiberglass and a second coat of epoxy I got some glazing putty like a autobody guy uses and put a thin coat over the fiberglass to make it smooth and even after sanding. If you want me to show you a picture of what a mortise and tenon look like I can try to upload a picture if I can figure out how to do it.

Link to my build of 91 Winston Eagle 1/10 electric.

https://www.intlwaters.com/threads/91-winston-eagle.79025/

Generally speaking, you want to keep fiberglass on a wood hull to a minimum. Some joints can benefit from the extra strength but, normally, fiberglass is just unwanted weight. You also have to consider that fiberglass will require filler to hide the fabric. That adds more weight, that is unless you don't care if the weave shows through the paint. Fiberglass can also make repairs harder since you will need to cut through or remove the glass to repair damage. Two things to remember:

• if you race, accidents will happen, it's just a matter of when
• hydroplanes can and will blow over

In either case, you have to expect damage. Why make it harder to repair than it needs to be?
Just my two cents