Chad hebert
Member
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2019
- Messages
- 5
Can someone point me in the right direction to anyone with info. On a .67 2 glow plug gold head cmb engine?
What do you want know.Can someone point me in the right direction to anyone with info. On a .67 2 glow plug gold head cmb engine?
Where can I get parts,and how competitive would it be with today's engine's.What do you want know.
Parts will be hard to find. Performance stock vs a stock current motor really needs any a comparison.Where can I get parts,and how competitive would it be with today's engine's.
As the guys above have pointed out, parts are sparse. But since you have it, I’d say run it until it pukes or you find/buy a new bullet. Just because it’s old doesn’t mean you can’t have fun with it!Where can I get parts,and how competitive would it be with today's engine's.
Check with Alan Elzer....seems he bought all of Stu's NOS parts for that series CMB engines.Where can I get parts,and how competitive would it be with today's engine's.
That thing is clean!!!Check with Alan Elzer....seems he bought all of Stu's NOS parts for that series CMB engines.
We had a new one we sold, with NOS spare parts, but converted to single plug setup, and installed a 45 RS EVO backplate with Speedmaster carb.
And, yes, with some mods they can be quite competitive.
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Thank you, Frank.That thing is clean!!!
Very nice Timbo !
Those engines with roller bearings need more castor in fuel, IMO.Now I’d raise the exhaust to 190.zoom,zoom
After the T-porting era, we found that slotting and window porting the piston closest to the boost port worked best. It's possible to also window port the boost port in like fashion, but we couldn't see a noticeable change in on the pond performance. Maybe different on a decent dyno, who knows. This is a NR67 flow configuration that works really well. Didn't grind new timing figures into it, but a .010" lift (shim) under sleeve flange woke things up....had to take .010" off the deck on the sleeve to compensate, too. I guess a .010" cut on the button touch down surface would've maybe been a better way to go. Buttons are cheap, compared to new sleeve + labor time.I’d T slot the intakes, bore holes in the piston to match, and skirt the piston, set the exhaust to 191…
But that’s just me…![]()
After the T-porting era, we found that slotting and window porting the piston closest to the boost port worked best. It's possible to also window port the boost port in like fashion, but we couldn't see a noticeable change in on the pond performance. Maybe different on a decent dyno, who knows. This is a NR67 flow configuration that works really well. Didn't grind new timing figures into it, but a .010" lift (shim) under sleeve flange woke things up....had to take .010" off the deck on the sleeve to compensate, too. I guess a .010" cut on the button touch down surface would've maybe been a better way to go. Buttons are cheap, compared to new sleeve + labor time.
Eventually, we're going to apply the same thought to our CMB 67's and 80's.....we'll keep you posted, Frank.
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